New England Salt Cod Fish Cakes

Salt cod fish cakes were a Friday-night and Saturday-morning staple throughout coastal New England for generations, stretching preserved salt cod with mashed potato into a thrifty, satisfying cake that fries up crisp on the outside and fluffy within.

Serves: 4 (makes 8 cakes)

Ingredients

• 340g (12 oz) salt cod, desalted (or substitute fresh cod, cooked and flaked)
• 680g (1½ lbs) russet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
• 60g (4 tbsp) unsalted butter
• 1 small onion, finely minced
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 2 tbsp fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
• ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
• ¼ tsp cayenne pepper
• 1 egg, lightly beaten
• 60g (½ cup) all-purpose flour for dredging
• 60ml (¼ cup) neutral oil for frying
• Lemon wedges and tartar sauce or ketchup, to serve

Instructions

1. Desalt the cod: soak the salt cod in cold water in the refrigerator for 24–36 hours, changing the water 3–4 times. The cod should taste pleasantly salty but not briny. Simmer in fresh water for 10–12 minutes until just cooked through; drain and flake, removing any skin or bones.
2. Boil the potatoes in salted water until tender, about 15–18 minutes. Drain and mash until smooth — no lumps.
3. Melt 1 tbsp of the butter in a small skillet over medium heat. Cook the onion until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook 1 minute more.
4. Combine the flaked cod, mashed potato, sautéed onion and garlic, parsley, black pepper, and cayenne in a large bowl. Stir in the beaten egg until the mixture holds together. Taste and add salt if needed (the cod provides most of the salt).
5. Shape into 8 patties about 2cm (¾ inch) thick and 8cm (3 inches) wide. Refrigerate on a plate for 20 minutes to firm up.
6. Dredge each cake lightly in flour, shaking off the excess. Heat the remaining butter and oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Fry the cakes for 3–4 minutes per side until deeply golden and heated through. Work in batches to avoid crowding.
7. Drain on a wire rack and serve immediately with lemon wedges and tartar sauce.

Cook's Notes: The salt cod soaking step cannot be rushed — start a day ahead. If using fresh cod instead, season the mixture assertively with salt. The uncooked patties can be formed and refrigerated up to 8 hours ahead; fry to order. Leftover cakes reheat well in a 190°C (375°F) oven for 10 minutes.