New England Lobster Bisque

Lobster bisque has graced the tables of Boston's finest seafood houses for over a century, a silken marriage of sweet Atlantic lobster, cream, and a deeply reduced shell stock that transforms humble crustacean trimmings into something extraordinary.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

For the shell stock:

• Shells and heads from 2 cooked lobsters (about 500g / 1 lb shells)
• 1 tbsp (15ml) olive oil
• 1 medium onion, roughly chopped
• 2 celery stalks, chopped
• 1 medium carrot, chopped
• 3 garlic cloves, smashed
• 2 tbsp (30g) tomato paste
• 120ml (½ cup) dry sherry or dry white wine
• 1.2 litres (5 cups) water
• 1 bay leaf, 4 thyme sprigs

For the bisque:

• 60g (4 tbsp) unsalted butter
• 1 small onion, finely diced
• 2 celery stalks, finely diced
• 3 tbsp (25g) all-purpose flour
• 120ml (½ cup) dry sherry
• 720ml (3 cups) prepared shell stock
• 240ml (1 cup) heavy cream
• 225g (8 oz) cooked lobster meat, roughly chopped
• Salt, white pepper, and a pinch of cayenne
• Fresh chives, to garnish

Instructions

1. Make the shell stock: heat olive oil in a large pot over high heat. Add lobster shells and cook, stirring, for 3–4 minutes until fragrant and lightly toasted. Add onion, celery, carrot, and garlic; cook 5 minutes. Stir in tomato paste and cook 2 minutes more.
2. Pour in the sherry and scrape up any browned bits. Add water, bay leaf, and thyme. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer 30 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing hard on the solids. You should have about 720ml (3 cups) of rich, rust-colored stock.
3. In a separate large saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Add onion and celery; cook until softened, about 6 minutes. Sprinkle in flour and stir constantly for 2 minutes to form a roux.
4. Add the sherry and cook 1 minute, stirring, until absorbed. Gradually whisk in the shell stock, then bring to a simmer. Cook 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened.
5. Stir in the cream and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Season with salt, white pepper, and cayenne. Add the lobster meat and warm through for 2 minutes — do not boil or the lobster will toughen.
6. Ladle into warm bowls and garnish with a few chive snippets and an optional swirl of cream.

Cook's Notes: Reserve the bisque base without cream and refrigerate up to 2 days ahead; add cream and lobster just before serving. If you cook whole lobsters yourself, the steaming liquid makes an excellent addition to the stock. A tablespoon of cognac stirred in at the end is a classic touch.