New England Fried Clams

Ipswich, Massachusetts is the undisputed home of the whole-belly fried clam, a tradition born at Howard Dexter's roadside stand in 1916 and carried forward in every clam shack from Cape Cod to Downeast Maine.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 1 kg (2.2 lbs) fresh shucked whole-belly soft-shell clams (Ipswich or steamer clams)
• 240ml (1 cup) evaporated milk
• 1 egg, beaten
• 180g (1½ cups) fine yellow cornmeal
• 90g (¾ cup) all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp salt
• ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
• ¼ tsp cayenne pepper
• Neutral oil for deep-frying (about 2 litres / 2 qts)
• Lemon wedges and tartar sauce, to serve

Instructions

1. Drain the shucked clams and pat dry with paper towels. Whisk together the evaporated milk and beaten egg in a wide bowl.
2. In a separate bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour, salt, pepper, and cayenne. This cornmeal-heavy coating fries up with the characteristic sandy crunch of a true clam shack.
3. Working in batches, drop the clams into the milk-egg mixture for 30 seconds, then dredge in the cornmeal mixture, pressing gently so the coating adheres. Shake off any excess.
4. Heat the oil in a large heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven to 190°C (375°F). Use a thermometer — temperature control is everything.
5. Fry the clams in small batches for 90 seconds to 2 minutes, until golden and the edges are just crisped. Do not crowd the pot or the oil temperature will drop and the clams will steam instead of fry.
6. Remove with a spider or slotted spoon and drain briefly on a wire rack (not paper towels, which trap steam). Season immediately with a pinch of salt.
7. Serve at once with lemon wedges, tartar sauce, and a side of coleslaw.

Cook's Notes: Whole-belly clams are non-negotiable for authenticity — clam strips (the foot muscle only) are a pale imitation. If fresh Ipswich clams are unavailable, look for fresh shucked steamers from any coastal fishmonger. The evaporated milk batter is the traditional choice; buttermilk can substitute but produces a slightly thicker crust.