Sichuan Suan Cai Yu

Suan Cai Yu — fish in sour pickled mustard greens broth — emerged in the 1990s in Chongqing and spread rapidly to become one of the defining dishes of modern Sichuan restaurant culture. The fermented mustard greens (suan cai) create an electrifying sour-spicy broth, and the fish is added last, cooked gently to velvety perfection. It is a dish built for sharing at the centre of the table.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 1 whole grass carp or catfish (about 1.2kg / 2.6 lb), filleted — keep bones and head
• 300g (10 oz) Sichuan suan cai (fermented mustard greens), roughly chopped
• 1 litre (4 cups) fish or chicken stock
• 4 dried red chillies
• 1 tsp Sichuan peppercorns
• 4 cloves garlic, sliced
• 20g (0.7 oz) fresh ginger, sliced
• 2 tbsp (30ml) Shaoxing wine
• 1 tbsp (15ml) light soy sauce
• 1 tsp salt
• 1 egg white
• 1 tsp cornstarch
• 3 tbsp (45ml) vegetable oil
• 2 spring onions, sliced

To finish

• 3 tbsp (45ml) chilli oil with sediment
• 1 tsp Sichuan peppercorn powder
• 2 tbsp (30ml) hot vegetable oil

Instructions

1. Slice fish fillets on the bias into 5mm pieces. Toss with egg white, cornstarch, and a pinch of salt. Marinate 15 minutes.
2. In a large pot, heat vegetable oil over medium-high heat. Add fish bones and head, fry 3-4 minutes until golden. Deglaze with Shaoxing wine.
3. Add stock, ginger, and half the garlic. Boil vigorously 10 minutes until broth turns milky. Remove bones.
4. Add suan cai, dried chillies, and soy sauce. Simmer 5 minutes.
5. Reduce heat to a gentle simmer. Slide fish slices in one by one. Cook 2-3 minutes until just opaque.
6. Transfer to a large serving bowl. Top with remaining garlic slices, Sichuan peppercorn powder, spring onions, and chilli oil sediment.
7. Heat 2 tbsp vegetable oil in a small pan until smoking. Pour sizzling oil directly over the garnish to bloom the aromatics.

Cook's Notes: The final pour of smoking hot oil is essential — it releases the aroma of the peppercorn and chilli all at once, transforming the dish. Suan cai is sold in Sichuan grocery stores; rinse if very salty before using.