Hunan Liang Mian Yu Xiang Huang Gua Si

Yu xiang — fish-fragrant — is one of Hunan and Sichuan cooking's most celebrated flavour profiles, built from pickled chilli, garlic, ginger and vinegar without any fish at all. Applied as a cold noodle dressing with crisp shredded cucumber, it creates a dish that is simultaneously sour, spicy, sweet and savoury — a masterclass in Hunan flavour balance.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 400g (14 oz) thin wheat noodles, fresh or dried
• 2 cucumbers (about 400g / 14 oz), julienned or shredded
• 1 tsp salt (to prep cucumber)
• 4 spring onions, thinly sliced
• 2 tbsp (20g) toasted peanuts, roughly crushed

For the fish-fragrant dressing:

• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tsp fresh ginger, minced
• 2 tbsp (30ml) Hunan pickled chilli paste or sambal oelek
• 2 tbsp (30ml) rice vinegar
• 1 tbsp (15ml) soy sauce
• 1 tbsp (15ml) sesame oil
• 1 tsp sugar
• 1 tbsp (15ml) vegetable oil

Instructions

1. Toss the shredded cucumber with 1 tsp salt in a colander and leave for 10 minutes to draw out moisture. Squeeze firmly in a clean cloth and set aside.
2. Cook the noodles in boiling water for 3–5 minutes until just tender. Drain and rinse under cold water until completely cool. Toss with a little sesame oil.
3. Make the dressing: combine the garlic, ginger, pickled chilli paste, rice vinegar, soy sauce, sesame oil, sugar and vegetable oil in a bowl and whisk well.
4. Divide the cold noodles among four bowls. Top generously with the salted, squeezed cucumber and spring onions.
5. Spoon the yu xiang dressing over the top. Scatter with crushed peanuts.
6. Toss at the table just before eating.

Cook's Notes: Salting and squeezing the cucumber is crucial — wet cucumber will dilute the dressing. For a more substantial dish, top with a thin omelette cut into strips. The dressing keeps in the refrigerator for up to one week.