Oden

Oden is the definitive Japanese winter comfort food — a slow-simmered dashi hot pot filled with an ever-changing roster of ingredients that have absorbed hours of delicate flavour. Sold from street stalls and convenience stores throughout Japan from autumn to spring, it is the dish that signals cold weather and warmth shared around a communal pot.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 1.5 litres (6 cups) dashi stock (kombu and bonito)
• 4 tbsp (60ml) soy sauce
• 3 tbsp (45ml) mirin
• 1 tsp (5g) sugar
• 300g (10 oz) daikon, peeled, cut into 3cm (1.2 in) rounds, scored on one side
• 4 boiled eggs, peeled
• 200g (7 oz) konnyaku (konjac), cut into triangles
• 4 fish cakes (chikuwa), halved
• 4 pieces atsuage (thick-fried tofu)
• 100g (3.5 oz) ganmodoki (tofu fritters)
• 2 sheets kombu (for tying, optional)

Instructions

1. Pre-cook daikon: place rounds in cold water, bring to a boil and simmer 10 minutes to remove bitterness. Drain and rinse.
2. Parboil konnyaku triangles 3 minutes in boiling water. Drain — this removes any off-flavours.
3. In a large pot, combine dashi, soy sauce, mirin, and sugar. Bring to a gentle simmer and taste — broth should be light, savoury, and slightly sweet.
4. Add daikon and kombu (if using). Simmer on the lowest heat, partially covered, for 30 minutes.
5. Add boiled eggs, konnyaku, atsuage, and ganmodoki. Continue simmering on very low heat for 45-60 minutes. Do not boil hard — a gentle murmur is essential.
6. Add chikuwa fish cakes in the final 15 minutes to avoid overcooking.
7. Serve in deep bowls with a ladle of the fragrant broth over each portion. Accompany with Japanese hot mustard (karashi).

Cook's Notes: Oden only improves with time — leftovers kept in the broth overnight and reheated are prized. Add mochi-stuffed pouches (mochi kinchaku) for an indulgent variation. The broth is the soul of this dish; use the best dashi you can make or buy.