Sichuan Zheng Cao Yu

Steaming is a revered technique throughout Sichuan home cooking, allowing the delicate sweetness of freshwater fish to shine while a bold, fermented chili-bean sauce dressing delivers the province's signature fiery, numbing depth. Grass carp (cao yu) is the traditional choice — mild, firm-fleshed, and widely farmed in Sichuan's rivers — though any large freshwater fish works beautifully. This is a dish of surprising elegance for something so quick to prepare.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 1 whole grass carp or sea bass, about 900g (2 lb), cleaned and scored
• 1 tsp (5g) salt
• 2 tsp (10ml) Shaoxing rice wine
• 5cm (2 in) piece fresh ginger, half sliced, half julienned
• 3 spring onions, white parts whole, green parts julienned

Dressing

• 2 tbsp (30ml) Pixian doubanjiang (fermented chili bean paste)
• 1 tbsp (15ml) light soy sauce
• 1 tsp (5ml) sesame oil
• 1 tsp (4g) sugar
• 2 tsp (10ml) Chinkiang black vinegar
• 3 cloves garlic, finely minced
• ½ tsp (2g) Sichuan peppercorn, toasted and ground

Finishing

• 3 tbsp (45ml) neutral oil
• 1 tsp (5ml) chili oil
• Large handful fresh coriander

Instructions

1. Rub the fish inside and out with salt and rice wine. Stuff the cavity with the sliced ginger and white spring onion sections. Place on a heatproof plate and marinate 15 minutes.

2. Set up a steamer with vigorously boiling water. Steam the fish for 10–12 minutes per 500g of weight — a 900g fish will need 18–20 minutes. The flesh should flake easily at the thickest point.

3. While the fish steams, whisk together all dressing ingredients in a small bowl until the sugar dissolves.

4. When the fish is done, carefully pour off and discard all accumulated liquid from the plate (this removes any fishy steam condensate). Lay the julienned spring onion greens and ginger on top of the fish.

5. Drizzle the doubanjiang dressing evenly over the fish.

6. Heat neutral oil in a small pan over high heat until it just begins to smoke — about 210°C (410°F). Pour the sizzling oil over the spring onion and ginger garnish in one swift motion; it will hiss and release a fragrant cloud.

7. Finish with a drizzle of chili oil and pile the fresh coriander on top. Serve immediately with steamed rice.

Cook's Notes: The sizzling oil pour is the heart of this technique — do not skip it. It cooks the raw garnish instantly and blooms the aromatics in the dressing. Pixian doubanjiang, from Pixian county in Chengdu, is the authentic choice; do not substitute with other chili pastes.