Yunnan Chao Che Tou Hua

Folded ear root (zhe er gen, Houttuynia cordata) is one of Yunnan's most distinctive and polarizing ingredients — intensely herbal, floral, and faintly fishy-smelling when raw, but transformed by a quick blast of high heat in the wok into something bold, aromatic, and deeply satisfying. This simple stir-fry pairs it with garlic, dried chili, and a flourish of fresh mint and coriander — a quintessential Kunming home cook's technique for taming the root's raw edge.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 400g (14 oz) fresh houttuynia root (zhe er gen), washed and cut into 4cm (1½ in) lengths
• 3 tbsp (45ml) neutral oil
• 5 cloves garlic, finely sliced
• 3 dried red chilies, crumbled
• 1 tbsp (15ml) light soy sauce
• 1 tsp (5ml) rice vinegar
• ½ tsp (2g) sugar
• ½ tsp (2g) salt, or to taste
• 2 spring onions, sliced on the diagonal
• Large handful fresh coriander, roughly torn
• 10 fresh mint leaves
• 1 tsp (5ml) sesame oil

Instructions

1. Blanch the houttuynia root in boiling salted water for 1 minute. Drain and immediately transfer to cold water to halt cooking. Drain well and pat dry — excess moisture will cause the wok to sputter.

2. Heat a wok or large skillet over high heat until it begins to smoke. Add the neutral oil and swirl to coat.

3. Add the garlic and dried chilies. Stir-fry vigorously for 30–40 seconds until the garlic turns translucent and the chili oil turns fragrant but not burnt.

4. Add the blanched houttuynia root. Toss constantly over maximum heat for 2–3 minutes — the high heat is essential to drive off the raw, pungent aroma and develop a slightly sweet, caramelized edge.

5. Add soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, and salt. Toss to combine for 30 seconds more.

6. Remove from heat. Add spring onions, coriander, and mint. Drizzle with sesame oil and toss briefly.

7. Serve immediately with steamed rice. The dish must be eaten hot — it does not hold well.

Cook's Notes: Houttuynia root is sold fresh or frozen at specialist Chinese and Southeast Asian grocers. If unavailable, substitute with thinly sliced lotus root for a different but equally delicious result. The brief blanch before stir-frying is essential — it softens the root's raw punch while keeping its distinctive character.