Supplì al Telefono

Roman supplì are the eternal street food of Rome, sold from rosticcerie and pizzerias since at least the 19th century. Their nickname "al telefono" (at the telephone) refers to the long strand of molten mozzarella that stretches between the two halves when you pull them apart — like an old telephone cord. Heavier and more savoury than Sicilian arancini, supplì are made with a ragù-enriched risotto rice.

Serves: 4 (makes about 12 supplì)

Ingredients

• 300g (1.5 cups) Arborio or Roma rice
• 200g (7 oz) ground beef
• 1 small onion, finely diced
• 2 tbsp (30ml) tomato paste
• 150ml (2/3 cup) dry white wine
• 400ml (1.75 cups) passata
• 2 eggs, beaten
• 50g (2 oz) Pecorino Romano, finely grated
• 200g (7 oz) fresh fior di latte mozzarella, cut into 1cm cubes
• 100g (3.5 oz) plain breadcrumbs
• 1 litre (4 cups) sunflower oil, for deep-frying
• Salt and black pepper

Instructions

1. Sauté onion in 2 tbsp olive oil over medium heat 5 minutes until soft. Add ground beef and cook, breaking it up, 6–8 minutes until browned. Add tomato paste and cook 2 minutes.
2. Add wine and cook until evaporated. Add passata, season, and simmer 20 minutes until thick. Remove from heat.
3. Cook rice in lightly salted water until just al dente, 14–16 minutes. Drain thoroughly and combine hot rice with the ragù. Let cool completely, then stir in eggs and Pecorino. Refrigerate 30 minutes.
4. With wet hands, take 60g of rice mixture and flatten in your palm. Press a cube of mozzarella in the centre and enclose, forming an oval football shape. Roll in breadcrumbs, pressing firmly.
5. Heat oil to 175°C (350°F). Fry supplì in batches 4–5 minutes, turning, until deep golden brown. Drain on paper towel and serve immediately.

Cook's Notes: The mozzarella must be very cold going in — freeze cubes for 10 minutes before using so they melt slowly and create the signature telephone-wire pull rather than leaking out.