Sichuan Pao Cai Liang Ban Bai Cai

Sichuan pao cai — the province's ancient tradition of lactic-fermented vegetables — differs fundamentally from Korean kimchi or Dongbei suan cai in its use of a perpetually maintained brine pot seasoned with baijiu, dried chillies, and Sichuan peppercorns. This cold salad uses the fermented cabbage directly as its centrepiece, lightly dressed to highlight rather than mask the complex sour-numbing flavour the fermentation develops.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 400g (14 oz) Sichuan pao cai napa cabbage (or freshly made, see notes), cut into 3cm pieces
• 2 tbsp (30ml) brine from the pao cai jar
• 1 tsp (5ml) sesame oil
• 1 tsp (5g) caster sugar
• 1 tsp (3g) Sichuan peppercorn powder
• 1 tbsp (15ml) chilli oil
• 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• 1 tsp (3g) toasted sesame seeds
• 2 spring onions, finely sliced
• 1 small handful fresh coriander

Instructions

1. If using store-bought pao cai, drain it but reserve the brine. If it is very sour, rinse briefly under cold water.
2. In a bowl, combine the pao cai brine, sesame oil, sugar, Sichuan peppercorn powder, and chilli oil to make the dressing. Taste and adjust — it should be sour, lightly sweet, numbing, and spicy in balance.
3. Toss the pao cai pieces in the dressing and scatter with thinly sliced garlic, sesame seeds, and spring onions.
4. Allow to sit at room temperature for 10 minutes before serving so the garlic perfumes the salad.
5. Finish with fresh coriander and serve cold as a side dish or appetiser.

Quick pao cai brine (if starting from scratch): Dissolve 3 tbsp salt in 1 litre water, add 4 dried red chillies, 1 tsp Sichuan peppercorns, 2 tbsp baijiu, and 1 tsp sugar. Submerge shredded cabbage for 24-48 hours at room temperature until pleasantly sour.

Cook's Notes: Authentic Sichuan pao cai is made in a water-sealed ceramic jar maintained over months or years, with vegetables added and removed regularly. The brine matures over time, developing increasing complexity. Pre-made pao cai is available at specialist Chinese grocers.