Vanjaram Meen Varuval

Varuval — a category of South Indian dry-fried or pan-seared dishes — reaches its apex with vanjaram (king mackerel / seer fish), the prestige catch of Tamil Nadu's coast. Marinated in a fierce paste of red chilli, turmeric, and black pepper, then seared in a cast iron kadai until a crackling crust forms, it is served at celebratory meals and fishing village feasts alike. This modern-fusion version adds a tamarind glaze at the finish for added depth.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 4 kingfish steaks, about 200g (7 oz) each, 2.5cm (1 inch) thick
• 3 tbsp (45ml) coconut oil or neutral oil

For the marinade:

• 2 tbsp (20g) Kashmiri red chilli powder
• 1 tsp (3g) turmeric powder
• 1 tsp (3g) freshly cracked black pepper
• 1 tbsp (10g) coriander powder
• 1 tsp (3g) fennel powder
• 4 cloves garlic, grated
• 2cm (¾ inch) fresh ginger, grated
• 2 tbsp (30ml) tamarind concentrate
• 1 tsp fine sea salt
• 2 tbsp (30ml) water to make a paste

To serve:

• Lime wedges, sliced red onion, and fresh curry leaves fried in oil

Instructions

1. Pat the fish steaks dry with paper towels. Score the skin side lightly with a knife.
2. Combine all marinade ingredients into a thick paste. Coat the fish steaks generously on all sides. Marinate for at least 30 minutes (up to 4 hours refrigerated).
3. Heat the oil in a heavy cast-iron pan or kadai over high heat until almost smoking.
4. Place the fish steaks in the pan and press lightly. Sear undisturbed for 3-4 minutes until a deep brown crust forms on the bottom.
5. Carefully flip and sear the other side for 3-4 minutes. The fish is done when it flakes cleanly at the thickest point.
6. In the last minute of cooking, add 6-8 fresh curry leaves to the oil around the fish — they will crisp up instantly.
7. Serve immediately with lime wedges, sliced raw red onion, and the fried curry leaves scattered over.

Cook's Notes: Do not move the fish during searing — the crust will release naturally when ready. Vanjaram is worth seeking out at South Asian fishmongers; substitute Spanish mackerel or halibut steaks if unavailable.