Djaj bil Hamad M'rakad

This is the dish that defines the flavour of the Moroccan table for many people — a sophisticated braise of chicken with preserved lemons and olives that bridges centuries-old Andalusian spicing with North African technique. The preserved lemon, cured for weeks in salt and its own juice, loses all bitterness and becomes something luminous and complex, perfuming the silky saffron-onion sauce with a flavour that has no equivalent in European cooking. This modern-fusion interpretation uses the classic technique with a lighter, more elegant presentation suited to the dinner-party table.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 1.2kg (2¾ lb) bone-in chicken thighs and drumsticks
• 2 large onions, grated on a box grater
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• Large pinch saffron threads, dissolved in 60ml (¼ cup) warm water
• 1½ tsp ground ginger
• 1 tsp ground turmeric
• 1 tsp ground white pepper
• ½ tsp ground cinnamon
• 3 tbsp (45ml) olive oil
• 30g (2 tbsp) unsalted butter
• 240ml (1 cup) water or light chicken stock
• 1 preserved lemon, pulp discarded, rind thinly sliced
• 120g (4 oz) purple or green Moroccan olives (or Kalamata), pitted
• Small handful fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
• Small handful fresh coriander (cilantro), chopped
• Salt to taste
• Couscous or warm flatbread, for serving

Instructions

1. In a large Dutch oven or tagine base, combine the grated onion, garlic, saffron water, ginger, turmeric, white pepper, cinnamon, olive oil, and butter. Stir into a paste.
2. Add the chicken pieces and turn them to coat in the marinade. Leave to marinate for 30 minutes at room temperature, or cover and refrigerate overnight for deeper flavour.
3. Place the pot over medium heat and cook the chicken in the marinade, turning occasionally, for 10 minutes — the onion will soften and the spices bloom.
4. Add the water or stock and bring to a gentle simmer. Cover and cook over low heat for 35–40 minutes, turning the chicken once halfway through, until the chicken is completely tender and nearly falling off the bone.
5. Remove the lid. Add the preserved lemon rind and olives. Increase heat to medium and simmer uncovered for 8–10 minutes, allowing the sauce to reduce to a thick, glossy consistency.
6. Taste and adjust salt — the preserved lemon and olives both contribute saltiness, so add carefully.
7. Scatter over the fresh herbs and serve directly from the pot with couscous or flatbread.

Cook's Notes: Good preserved lemons are the non-negotiable ingredient here — buy them from a Moroccan or Middle Eastern grocer, or make your own (they take 4 weeks). The combination of sweet saffron onion and briny preserved lemon is one of the great flavour contrasts in world cooking.