Barbacoa de Res

Barbacoa de Res is one of Mexico's oldest feast-day traditions, originating in pre-Columbian pit-roasting techniques. Today the beef — traditionally cheeks or head — is wrapped in maguey leaves and slow-cooked until impossibly tender, then shredded and served in tacos with cilantro, white onion and salsa verde. It is synonymous with early Sunday mornings and long communal meals.

Serves: 6

Ingredients

• 1.5kg (3 lb 5 oz) beef cheeks or chuck roast, cut into large chunks
• 3 dried ancho chillies, stems and seeds removed
• 2 dried guajillo chillies, stems and seeds removed
• 2 chipotle chillies in adobo
• 4 cloves garlic, unpeeled
• 1 medium white onion, quartered
• 1 tsp (3g) cumin seeds
• 1 tsp (3g) dried oregano (Mexican if available)
• ½ tsp (2g) black pepper
• 4 whole cloves
• 1 cinnamon stick, 5cm
• 2 bay leaves
• 3 tbsp (45ml) apple cider vinegar
• 250ml (1 cup) beef stock or water
• Salt to taste

To serve

• Small corn tortillas, warmed
• White onion, finely diced
• Fresh cilantro, chopped
• Salsa verde or salsa roja
• Lime wedges

Instructions

1. Toast dried chillies in a dry pan over medium heat 30–60 seconds per side until fragrant and pliable. Soak in hot water 20 minutes to rehydrate. Drain.
2. Char the unpeeled garlic and onion quarters directly over a gas flame or in a hot dry skillet until blackened in spots, about 8–10 minutes. Peel garlic.
3. Blend the soaked chillies, charred garlic and onion, chipotle chillies, cumin, oregano, pepper, cloves, cinnamon and vinegar with 100ml water until smooth. Pass through a sieve for extra smoothness.
4. Season the beef chunks generously with salt. In a heavy ovenproof casserole, sear the beef in a little oil over high heat until well browned all over, about 5–6 minutes per batch.
5. Pour the blended chile sauce over the beef. Add stock and bay leaves. Cover tightly with foil and then the lid. Cook in a 160°C (320°F) oven 4–5 hours until the beef is fall-apart tender and deeply flavoured.
6. Shred the beef using two forks, stirring it back through the braising juices. Adjust seasoning.
7. Serve in warmed corn tortillas with diced white onion, cilantro, salsa and lime.

Cook's Notes: Beef cheeks are the most prized cut for barbacoa — their high collagen content creates a silky, gelatinous texture unmatched by other cuts. The dish is often started late on a Saturday night to be ready for Sunday breakfast. Leftovers reheat beautifully; the flavour deepens overnight.