Yunnan Dali Ruan Mi

Soft rice congee from Dali, home of the Bai ethnic minority, is the cornerstone of breakfast across the Yunnan plateau. Ruan mi — literally "soft rice" — uses a short-grain purple or white rice cooked to a porridge consistency, served with a forest of condiments: pickled vegetables, crispy shallots, sesame paste, and the aromatic dried herbs of the mountain foothills.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

Congee:

• 200g (1 cup) short-grain white rice or mixed white and purple glutinous rice
• 1.5 litres (6 cups) water or light chicken stock
• 1 tsp (5g) fine salt
• 1 tbsp (15ml) neutral oil

Condiments (prepare ahead):

• 4 tbsp (60g) Yunnan pickled mustard greens (ya cai), rinsed and squeezed dry
• 3 tbsp (45ml) toasted sesame paste thinned with warm water
• 2 tbsp (30ml) chilli oil
• 3 tbsp (30g) crispy fried shallots
• 1 tbsp (10g) dried shrimp, soaked 10 minutes and drained (optional)
• 2 spring onions, finely sliced
• Handful of fresh coriander

Instructions

1. Rinse rice until water runs nearly clear. Combine with water or stock in a heavy pot.
2. Bring to a boil, then stir and reduce to the lowest possible simmer. Cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 45–50 minutes until the rice is completely broken down into a thick, creamy porridge. Add more water if needed to maintain a loose consistency.
3. Stir in oil and salt. Taste and adjust.
4. While the congee cooks, prepare all condiments: arrange pickled greens, sesame paste, chilli oil, fried shallots, and dried shrimp (if using) in small bowls.
5. Ladle congee into deep bowls. Each diner adds their own condiments.
6. Finish with spring onions and coriander.

Cook's Notes: Purple glutinous rice gives a stunning colour and slightly chewy texture — mix half-and-half with white rice for the best result. The sesame paste should be thinned until it flows like thick cream; Yunnan sesame paste is more aromatic than Middle Eastern tahini. Any leftover congee firms up completely when cold — reheat with added water.