Hunan Zu An Yu

Zu An Yu traces its name to Tan Yankai, a prominent Hunanese statesman and gourmet who served as premier of the Republic of China in the 1920s — Zu An was his courtesy name. His personal chef elevated this braised fish to an art form: Hunan river carp is slowly simmered in a clay pot with smoked pork, fresh tofu, and a fragrant sauce of chilli bean paste, making it one of the province's grandest banquet dishes.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 1 whole freshwater carp or tilapia (about 900g / 2 lbs), cleaned and scored on each side
• 150g (5 oz) Hunan la rou (smoked cured pork belly), sliced thin (substitute: smoked pancetta or lardons)
• 300g (10 oz) firm tofu, cut into 3cm (1.2-inch) cubes
• 2 tbsp (30g) doubanjiang (Pixian chilli bean paste)
• 3 spring onions, knotted whole + 2 sliced, to garnish
• 4 slices ginger
• 4 garlic cloves, sliced
• 2 tbsp (30ml) Shaoxing rice wine
• 1 tbsp (15ml) light soy sauce
• 1 tsp dark soy sauce
• 1 tsp sugar
• 3 tbsp (45ml) vegetable oil
• 500ml (2 cups) water or light chicken stock
• Fresh red chilli slices, to garnish

Instructions

1. Pat fish dry inside and out, season with salt and rub with Shaoxing wine. Let rest 10 minutes.
2. Heat 2 tbsp oil in a large wok or wide pan over high heat until smoking. Carefully slide in the fish and pan-fry without moving for 3–4 minutes until a golden crust forms. Carefully flip and fry the other side 3 minutes. Remove fish.
3. Reduce heat to medium, add remaining oil and sliced la rou. Stir-fry 2 minutes until the fat renders and the meat begins to crisp at the edges.
4. Add ginger, garlic, and knotted spring onions. Stir-fry 1 minute.
5. Add doubanjiang and fry 1–2 minutes until the oil turns red.
6. Pour in water or stock, light soy, dark soy, and sugar. Bring to a boil.
7. Gently return the fish to the pot. Add tofu cubes around the fish. Spoon sauce over the fish, cover, and braise over medium-low heat for 18–22 minutes, basting occasionally.
8. Remove knotted spring onions. Slide fish and tofu carefully onto a large serving plate. Boil sauce briefly to reduce by one-third, pour over fish, and garnish with sliced spring onions and red chilli.

Cook's Notes: The initial high-heat sear creates a skin that holds the fish together during braising — don't rush it. Use a fish spatula and confidence when flipping. The doubanjiang provides all the salt needed; taste before adding any more soy.