Hunan La Rou Dun Dong Gua

La rou — Hunan's smoked and salt-cured pork belly — is the backbone of the province's winter cooking. When braised with winter melon (dong gua), the smokiness of the cured meat infuses the mild, absorbent flesh of the gourd, creating a dish of remarkable depth and subtlety. This one-pot braise is a Hunanese farmhouse standard, served through the cold months when la rou hangs cured in every kitchen.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 400g (14 oz) Hunan la rou (smoked cured pork belly), skin on, cut into 3cm (1.2-inch) slices (substitute: Spanish-style smoked pork belly or slab bacon with a drop of liquid smoke)
• 600g (1.3 lbs) winter melon (dong gua), peeled, seeded, and cut into 4cm (1.5-inch) chunks
• 3 spring onions (scallions), cut into 5cm (2-inch) lengths
• 5 slices fresh ginger
• 3 garlic cloves, lightly crushed
• 1 tbsp (15ml) Shaoxing rice wine
• 1 tsp light soy sauce
• 0.5 tsp ground white pepper
• 700ml (3 cups) water or unsalted pork stock
• 1 tbsp (15ml) vegetable oil
• Fresh coriander (cilantro), to garnish

Instructions

1. Rinse la rou slices under cold water to remove excess salt and surface smoke residue. Pat dry.
2. Heat oil in a clay pot or heavy Dutch oven over medium heat. Add ginger and garlic and stir-fry 30 seconds until fragrant.
3. Add la rou slices and brown lightly on both sides, about 3 minutes total, rendering some of the fat.
4. Pour in Shaoxing wine and let it sizzle for 30 seconds.
5. Add water or stock, bring to a boil, skim off any grey foam, then reduce heat to low. Cover and simmer 25 minutes.
6. Add winter melon chunks and soy sauce. Continue simmering, covered, for a further 20–25 minutes until the melon is tender and translucent and has absorbed the smoky broth.
7. Add spring onions and white pepper. Simmer uncovered for 5 minutes. The broth should be lightly cloudy and savoury.
8. Serve in the pot or transfer to a deep bowl, garnished with fresh coriander.

Cook's Notes: Do not add salt until tasting at the end — la rou is already well-salted. If the pork tastes very salty, soak it in cold water for 1 hour before cooking. Winter melon should be soft but retain its shape, not mushy.