Pipián Rojo con Cerdo

Pipián is one of Mexico's oldest sauces, documented in pre-Columbian codices and brought to its peak in the convents of colonial Puebla. The red variety combines toasted pumpkin seeds with dried chiles and tomato for a nutty, deeply savoury sauce. Stone-fruit notes come from guajillo chiles, which carry a natural tartness akin to dried cherries.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 700g (1.5 lbs) pork shoulder, cut into 4cm (1.5-inch) cubes
• 150g (1 cup) raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas), hulled
• 4 guajillo chiles, stemmed and seeded
• 2 pasilla chiles, stemmed and seeded
• 3 roma tomatoes, halved
• 1 small white onion, quartered
• 4 garlic cloves, unpeeled
• 1 tsp cumin seeds
• 0.5 tsp black peppercorns
• 3 tbsp (45ml) lard or vegetable oil
• 600ml (2.5 cups) chicken or pork stock
• Salt to taste
• Warm corn tortillas, to serve

Instructions

1. Toast pumpkin seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently, 4–5 minutes until golden and beginning to pop. Tip onto a plate to cool. Toast chiles the same way, pressing flat for 20 seconds per side. Soak chiles in boiling water for 20 minutes.
2. Under the broiler or directly over a gas flame, char tomatoes, onion, and garlic until blackened in spots, about 10 minutes. Peel garlic.
3. Grind cumin seeds and peppercorns in a spice grinder or mortar. Blend pumpkin seeds to a coarse powder, then add soaked chiles, charred vegetables, and ground spices with enough stock to form a smooth sauce.
4. Season pork with salt. Heat lard in a heavy pot over medium-high heat and brown pork in batches, about 5 minutes per batch. Remove and set aside.
5. Add pipián purée to the pot and fry, stirring constantly, for 5–6 minutes until sauce deepens in colour and fat separates slightly.
6. Return pork to the pot, pour in remaining stock, bring to a simmer, cover, and cook 55–65 minutes until pork is tender.
7. Adjust salt. The sauce should be thick enough to coat a spoon. Serve with warm corn tortillas.

Cook's Notes: Toasting the pumpkin seeds until they are genuinely golden — not pale — is the key step for flavour. If the sauce turns bitter, add a pinch of sugar.