Kabura Zushi

Kabura Zushi is a narezushi — ancient pressed-fermented sushi — from Kanazawa on the Sea of Japan coast, crafted each winter since at least the Edo period. Slices of fresh turnip are sandwiched around slivers of yellowtail (buri), layered with rice, salted and weighted for 3–5 days. The fermentation produces an extraordinary sweet-sour depth entirely unlike modern vinegared sushi. It is a cherished winter luxury of the Kaga region.

Serves: 6

Ingredients

• 3 large white turnips (kabu), about 700g (1½ lb) total
• 300g (10 oz) very fresh yellowtail (buri) or amberjack fillet, skin removed
• 40g (2½ tbsp) fine sea salt (for turnips)
• 20g (1¼ tbsp) fine sea salt (for fish)
• 200g (1 cup) cooked Japanese short-grain rice, cooled
• 2 tbsp (30ml) sake
• 1 tbsp (15ml) mirin
• 30g (1 oz) finely sliced carrot (optional garnish strips)
• 10g (½ oz) thinly sliced yuzu peel or lemon zest

Instructions

1. Day 1 — salt the turnips: Peel the turnips and slice into rounds about 1.5cm (⅝ inch) thick. Cut each round almost in half horizontally (like a hinge), leaving one edge attached. Toss with 40g salt in a bowl, weight with a plate and 500g (1 lb) weight. Refrigerate 24 hours.
2. Salt the fish: Slice the yellowtail into thin strips about 5mm (¼ inch) thick. Toss with 20g salt, cover, and refrigerate alongside the turnips for the same 24 hours.
3. Day 2 — assemble: Rinse the turnips and fish briefly; pat dry. Mix the cooled rice with sake and mirin. Tuck 2–3 fish slices and a pinch of seasoned rice into the hinge of each turnip, pressing the halves together to enclose the filling.
4. In a clean non-reactive container (wooden or glass), lay a bed of the remaining seasoned rice. Arrange a layer of stuffed turnips, a scatter of carrot strips and yuzu peel, then more rice. Continue layering, finishing with rice. Press firmly, cover with cling film, and weight with at least 1kg (2¼ lb).
5. Ferment: Refrigerate for 3–5 days. After 2 days, taste a turnip edge — it should be slightly acidic and fragrant. After 5 days, it will be more pronounced and the rice will be mushy (traditional and desirable).
6. Remove from brine, arrange on a cold plate, and serve as part of a New Year's or winter appetiser spread.

Cook's Notes: Use only the freshest, sushi-grade fish. The fermentation happens from lactobacillus on the rice and vegetables — no added starter is needed. This is a preserved winter specialty; the flavour deepens each day.