Ajvar

Ajvar is the great preserve of the Serbian autumn — a smoky, sweet-sour roasted red pepper and aubergine relish that families make in enormous quantities each September when peppers are at their peak. The name derives from the Turkish word for caviar, reflecting the relish's jewel-like colour and concentrated intensity. Jars of homemade ajvar line Serbian pantry shelves year-round, spread on bread, served alongside grilled meats, or stirred into stews.

Serves: 10 (makes about 1 litre / 2 jars)

Ingredients

• 2 kg (4.4 lb) large red bell peppers (about 8–10)
• 500g (1.1 lb) aubergine / eggplant (about 2 medium)
• 4 garlic cloves, finely minced
• 80ml (⅓ cup) sunflower oil
• 2 tbsp (30ml) white wine vinegar
• 1 tsp (5g) salt, plus more to taste
• ½ tsp (1g) black pepper
• ½ tsp (1g) sugar (optional, to balance acidity)

Instructions

1. Char peppers and aubergine: Place them directly on the flames of a gas burner, under a very hot grill, or on a charcoal fire. Turn with tongs every 3–4 minutes until completely blackened on all sides, 15–20 minutes for peppers, 20–25 minutes for aubergines.
2. Transfer charred vegetables to a large bowl, cover with a plate, and steam 15 minutes. Peel away blackened skins under running water and discard. Remove pepper stems and seeds. Drain aubergine flesh.
3. Chop the peeled vegetables finely by hand for a rustic texture, or pulse briefly in a food processor — do not puree smooth.
4. Heat oil in a wide, heavy pan over medium heat. Add the chopped vegetable mixture and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, 25–35 minutes until the mixture darkens, concentrates, and the oil begins to separate at the edges.
5. Stir in vinegar, salt, pepper, and sugar if using. Taste and adjust seasoning. Cook 5 minutes more.
6. Ladle into sterilised jars while hot. Store refrigerated for up to 3 weeks, or process in a water bath for shelf-stable preservation.

Cook's Notes: The longer ajvar cooks, the sweeter and more concentrated it becomes. Traditional recipes are made entirely on a wood fire, which adds extraordinary smokiness. Add one roasted chilli to the mix for a spicier version (ljuti ajvar).