Risotto al Nero di Seppia

Risotto al Nero di Seppia — jet-black rice made ink-dark by the squid's own natural pigment — is one of the most dramatic and flavoursome dishes of the Venetian lagoon. The ink imparts a subtle brine and mineral depth that complements the tender cuttlefish or squid cooked into the rice. The dish appears in Venetian records as early as the late eighteenth century and remains the signature seafood risotto of the Adriatic coast.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 320g (11 oz) Carnaroli or Arborio rice
• 600g (1¼ lb) fresh cuttlefish or squid, cleaned, with ink sacs reserved
• 4 sachets (8g) squid ink (or use fresh ink sacs)
• 1.2 litres (5 cups) fish stock or light vegetable stock, kept hot
• 1 medium white onion, finely chopped
• 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 150ml (⅔ cup) dry white wine
• 4 tbsp (60ml) extra-virgin olive oil
• 30g (2 tbsp) unsalted butter
• Salt and white pepper
• Flat-leaf parsley, chopped, to finish

Instructions

1. Cut cleaned cuttlefish into strips or rings about 1.5cm wide. Season lightly with salt.
2. Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a wide, heavy-based pan over medium-high heat. Sear cuttlefish in batches for 2 minutes until lightly coloured. Remove and set aside.
3. Reduce heat to medium. Add remaining oil and sauté onion with a pinch of salt for 8 minutes until completely soft and translucent. Add garlic and cook 1 minute more.
4. Add rice and stir for 2 minutes to toast the grains. Pour in white wine and stir until completely absorbed.
5. Dissolve squid ink in a ladleful of hot stock and add to the rice — the rice will immediately turn black. Begin adding stock one ladle at a time, stirring constantly and allowing each addition to absorb before adding the next.
6. After 12 minutes, return the seared cuttlefish to the pan. Continue adding stock for a further 4–6 minutes until the rice is al dente and the risotto flows like lava when stirred.
7. Remove from heat. Stir in butter vigorously (mantecatura). Taste and season. Rest for 2 minutes.
8. Serve in warm, wide bowls finished with a drizzle of good olive oil and chopped parsley.

Cook's Notes: The mantecatura — vigorous off-heat stirring with cold butter — is what gives risotto its characteristic creamy flow. Never add the butter over heat. Cuttlefish has more flavour than squid for this dish; if using squid, add the ink sacs carefully — they are delicate and burst easily.