Jambon Persillé de Bourgogne

Jambon Persillé is the great cold charcuterie of Burgundy, traditionally made at Easter from the last of the cured winter ham. Coarsely shredded poached ham is suspended in a brilliant green-flecked aspic of white Burgundy wine, aromatic herbs, and natural gelatin from the trotters, then set in a terrine mould and sliced at the table. It has been made in the Côte d'Or for at least two centuries.

Serves: 8–10

Ingredients

• 1.5kg (3¼ lb) smoked ham hock or unsmoked cured ham, bone-in
• 2 pig's trotters, split (for natural gelatin)
• 500ml (2 cups) dry white Burgundy wine (or other dry white)
• 1 litre (4 cups) water
• 1 large onion, quartered
• 2 carrots, roughly chopped
• 1 bouquet garni (thyme, bay, parsley stalks)
• 6 black peppercorns
• 4 cloves garlic

For the aspic:

• 2 tbsp (30ml) white wine vinegar
• Large bunch of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped (about 60g)
• 1 tbsp (15ml) Dijon mustard
• Salt and white pepper to taste

Instructions

1. Day 1 — Poach: Place ham, trotters, wine, water, onion, carrots, bouquet garni, peppercorns, and garlic in a large pot. Bring to a boil, skim thoroughly. Reduce heat and poach at a gentle simmer for 3–4 hours until the ham is completely tender and falling off the bone.
2. Remove ham. Strain the cooking liquid and return to the pot. Boil the strained liquid vigorously until reduced to about 700ml (3 cups). Taste and season. Add vinegar. Cool to room temperature.
3. Shred the ham into rough chunks (not too fine — a rustic texture is traditional).
4. Stir chopped parsley and mustard into the cooled but still-liquid aspic. Fold in the shredded ham.
5. Pour into a 1.5-litre terrine or loaf tin. Refrigerate overnight — the aspic must set completely, which takes at least 12 hours.
6. Day 2 — Serve: Unmould by briefly dipping the terrine in warm water. Slice thickly and serve at room temperature with cornichons, Dijon mustard, and crusty bread.

Cook's Notes: The trotters provide natural gelatin — test the set by chilling a small spoonful of the reduced liquid. If it does not gel firmly, simmer longer or add a sheet of gelatine. The dish keeps for five days covered in the refrigerator. The green colour of the parsley is most vivid when the terrine is served freshly sliced.