Yunnan Ka Wa La Ka Zi

Along the roadsides of Yunnan's Dehong and Xishuangbanna prefectures, Dai minority vendors grill thick blocks of firm tofu directly over charcoal until the surface blisters and chars, then serve them with a vivid dipping sauce of fresh lemongrass, chilli, garlic, and local herbs. This is street food at its most elemental — the smokiness of the grill against the sharp, fragrant sauce is a combination found nowhere else in China.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

For the grilled tofu:

• 600g (1 lb 5 oz) extra-firm tofu, pressed and cut into 2cm (¾-inch) thick slabs
• 2 tbsp (30ml) vegetable oil
• ½ tsp (2.5g) salt

For the Dai herb dipping sauce:

• 2 stalks lemongrass, white part only, finely minced
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 2–3 fresh bird's eye chillies, sliced
• 2 tbsp (30ml) fish sauce (or soy sauce for vegetarian)
• 1 tbsp (15ml) fresh lime juice
• 1 tsp (5g) sugar
• Large handful fresh coriander, roughly chopped
• 6–8 fresh mint leaves, torn
• 2 tbsp (30ml) water

Instructions

1. Press the tofu under a weighted board for 30 minutes to remove excess moisture. Pat dry with paper towels.
2. Brush the tofu slabs on all sides with oil and season lightly with salt.
3. Prepare a charcoal grill or preheat a cast-iron grill pan over high heat until very hot. Grill the tofu 4–5 minutes per side until well-marked, deeply golden, and slightly charred at the edges. Do not move it once placed — it needs to develop a proper crust.
4. Meanwhile, combine all dipping sauce ingredients in a bowl and stir until the sugar dissolves. Taste and adjust — it should be sour, salty, fragrant, and spicy.
5. Transfer the grilled tofu to a plate and serve immediately with the herb dipping sauce on the side.

Cook's Notes: The grill char is essential — do not cook this in a non-stick pan. Yunnan vendors sometimes stuff the tofu slabs with a small amount of the herb paste before grilling by slicing a pocket into each piece. Extra-firm or pressed tofu holds up on the grill; soft tofu will collapse.