Fujian Xiao Chao Fen Gan

Fen Gan (粉干) is the thin, round, dried rice vermicelli of Fujian and a staple across the province's breakfast stalls, night markets, and home kitchens. Unlike the flat rice noodles of Guangdong, Fujian Fen Gan has a firmer bite and absorbs sauce without going mushy — making it perfect for the fast, high-heat stir-fry method called xiao chao. This street-food classic appears everywhere from Fuzhou to Putian.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 300g (10½ oz) dried Fujian rice vermicelli (粉干), or thin rice stick noodles
• 150g (5½ oz) pork belly, thinly sliced
• 100g (3½ oz) medium prawns, shelled and deveined
• 4 dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked and sliced
• 2 cups (80g) bean sprouts
• 3 spring onions, cut into 4cm (1½-inch) lengths
• 3 cloves garlic, sliced
• 2 tbsp (30ml) soy sauce
• 1 tbsp (15ml) oyster sauce
• 1 tsp (5ml) sesame oil
• 2 tbsp (30ml) vegetable oil
• Salt and white pepper to taste

Instructions

1. Soak the rice vermicelli in cold water 20 minutes, then drain. They should be softened but still firm — they finish cooking in the wok.
2. Heat a large wok over high heat until very hot. Add vegetable oil, then stir-fry the pork belly 2–3 minutes until lightly coloured.
3. Add garlic and sliced mushrooms, stir-fry 1 minute. Add the prawns and cook until they turn pink, about 1–2 minutes.
4. Add the drained vermicelli. Pour in soy sauce and oyster sauce. Toss everything vigorously with tongs or chopsticks over maximum heat 3–4 minutes, adding 2–3 tbsp water if the noodles stick.
5. Add bean sprouts and spring onions in the last minute of cooking, tossing just until the sprouts lose their raw bite.
6. Season with salt and white pepper. Finish with a drizzle of sesame oil and serve immediately.

Cook's Notes: The hallmark of good xiao chao is wok hei — the smoky breath of a screaming-hot wok. At home, cook in two batches if your wok is small. Fujian cooks sometimes add a spoonful of lard for richer flavour. Leftover soaking water from mushrooms adds umami; use it in place of plain water.