Frijoles de Olla

Frijoles de olla — literally 'beans from the pot' — are the foundation of Mexican home cooking, eaten at almost every meal in one form or another since pre-Columbian times. Simply cooked with onion, garlic, and a branch of epazote (the aromatic herb that also helps with digestion), they are humble, nourishing, and deeply satisfying eaten straight from the clay pot.

Serves: 6

Ingredients

• 500 g (1 lb) dried black beans or pinto beans, picked over and rinsed
• 1.5 litres (6 cups) water, plus more as needed
• 1 medium white onion, halved
• 5 cloves garlic, unpeeled
• 3 sprigs fresh epazote (or 1 tbsp dried, or substitute 2 sprigs fresh coriander)
• 2 tbsp (30 ml) lard or vegetable oil
• 1½ tsp salt, or to taste

To Serve

• Fresh white onion, finely diced
• Fresh coriander (cilantro), chopped
• Dried Mexican oregano
• Lime wedges
• Sliced fresh or pickled jalapeños
• Warm corn tortillas

Instructions

1. Place the beans in a large clay pot (olla de barro) or heavy saucepan. Add the water — the beans should be covered by at least 5 cm (2 in) of water.
2. Add the halved onion, unpeeled garlic, and epazote. Bring to a boil over high heat, skimming any foam.
3. Add the lard or oil, which helps soften the bean skins. Reduce to a gentle simmer, partially cover, and cook for 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours, checking every 30 minutes and adding hot water as needed to keep beans submerged.
4. The beans are ready when they are completely tender, creamy inside, and the broth is thick and deeply flavoured. Do NOT add salt until the beans are fully tender.
5. Once tender, add salt, stir, and cook a further 10 minutes for the salt to absorb.
6. Remove and discard the onion halves and garlic. The epazote can be removed or left in.
7. Serve the beans in their broth in deep bowls or cups, topped with diced onion, coriander, a pinch of dried oregano, and a squeeze of lime. Offer tortillas for dipping.

Cook's Notes: The cardinal rule of frijoles de olla: never add salt until the beans are soft — salt added too early dramatically hardens the skins and extends cooking time. Clay pot cooking is traditional and worth it — it imparts an earthy mineral quality to the broth. In a slow cooker, cook on LOW for 8–10 hours. Leftover beans become next-day frijoles refritos (refried beans).