Tegamaccio del Trasimeno

Tegamaccio is the ancient fisherman's stew of Lake Trasimeno in landlocked Umbria, one of Italy's last great freshwater fishing traditions. The name comes from tegame (earthenware pan), and the dish combines several local fish braised together with white wine, tomatoes, and sage into a deeply flavoured, restorative pot that has sustained fishing families for centuries.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 1.2 kg (2.6 lb) mixed freshwater fish (carp, perch, pike, tench), cleaned and cut into large pieces — or substitute saltwater fish such as sea bream, mullet, and bass
• 1 medium onion, finely sliced
• 4 cloves garlic, sliced
• 4 ripe plum tomatoes (or 200 g / 7 oz canned), roughly chopped
• 150 ml (⅔ cup) dry white wine
• 4 tbsp (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
• 8 fresh sage leaves
• 1 sprig fresh rosemary
• 1 dried red chilli, crumbled
• Salt and black pepper to taste
• Small bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped
• 4 thick slices Umbrian-style bread (or sourdough), toasted and rubbed with garlic

Instructions

1. Season the fish pieces generously with salt and pepper. In a wide, heavy earthenware pot or casserole, warm the olive oil over medium heat.
2. Gently fry the onion for 8–10 minutes until soft and translucent. Add the garlic, sage, rosemary, and crumbled chilli; cook 2 minutes until fragrant.
3. Add the white wine and simmer for 3 minutes to evaporate the alcohol.
4. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes until they break down into a rough sauce.
5. Arrange the fish pieces in a single layer over the sauce. The thicker, firmer pieces (carp or bass) go in first; add the more delicate pieces on top.
6. Cover and braise over low heat for 25–30 minutes without stirring — the fish should fall apart gently in the sauce. Carefully check for doneness after 20 minutes.
7. Scatter the chopped parsley over the top. Taste and adjust salt.
8. Place a piece of garlic-rubbed toast in each wide bowl, spoon the stew over generously, and serve immediately.

Cook's Notes: The tradition is to use local Trasimeno lake fish, but any combination of firm-fleshed fish works beautifully. Avoid fragile fish that will disintegrate completely. Do not stir once the fish is added — the tegamaccio is meant to be served in large pieces, not shredded.