Yibin Ran Mian

Yibin Ran Mian — "burning noodles" — takes its name from the legend that the thin, oil-dressed strands would ignite if lit with a match, so loaded are they with chilli oil and lard. A Yibin city speciality predating the more famous Dan Dan Mian by centuries, these dry-tossed noodles are served at breakfast at street stalls throughout Sichuan, the noodles dressed with sesame paste, Sichuan chilli oil, preserved Yibin ya cai (mustard greens), peanuts, and spring onion.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 400g (14 oz) fresh thin round noodles (or dried somen-style noodles)
• 80g (⅓ cup) Yibin ya cai (Yibin preserved mustard greens), rinsed and finely chopped (or substitute Tianjin winter vegetable)
• 60g (¼ cup) roasted unsalted peanuts, roughly crushed
• 3 tbsp (45ml) Sichuan chilli oil, with sediment
• 1 tbsp (15ml) sesame oil
• 2 tbsp (30g) Chinese sesame paste or tahini
• 1 tbsp (15ml) light soy sauce
• 1 tsp dark soy sauce
• 2 tsp black rice vinegar
• 1 tsp sugar
• ½ tsp ground roasted Sichuan peppercorns
• 4 spring onions, finely sliced
• 1 tbsp (15g) rendered lard or extra sesame oil

Instructions

1. Mix together sesame paste, chilli oil, sesame oil, both soy sauces, vinegar, sugar, and ground Sichuan pepper in a large bowl. Taste and adjust heat and acidity.
2. Bring a large pot of unsalted water to a rolling boil. Cook noodles according to packet instructions until just tender, about 2–3 minutes for fresh, 4–5 for dried. Drain thoroughly — do not rinse.
3. While noodles are still steaming hot, add lard (or sesame oil) and toss immediately to prevent sticking.
4. Transfer noodles to the bowl of sauce. Toss vigorously with tongs or chopsticks until every strand is coated.
5. Divide into bowls. Top each with a spoonful of ya cai, a generous scatter of crushed peanuts, and sliced spring onions.
6. Serve immediately — the heat of the noodles activates and blooms the chilli oil.

Cook's Notes: Yibin ya cai is available online and in Chinese supermarkets; its distinctively sweet, slightly fermented flavour is irreplaceable. The dish is meant to be eaten immediately; the oil will be absorbed if it stands. For a richer bowl, add a soft-boiled egg.