Hunan Chou Doufu

Hunan stinky tofu is the most divisive dish in a cuisine already famous for bold flavour. Slabs of firm tofu are fermented in a brine of salt, winter melon, mustard greens, and a host of other aromatics for anywhere from a day to a week, then deep-fried until a lacquer-black skin forms and the inside turns custard-soft. Chang Sha night markets have served it since at least the Qing dynasty, and the smell — pungent, fermented, unmistakable — is the sign you are close.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

Fermentation brine (prepare 1–3 days ahead)

• 1 litre (4 cups) cold water
• 50g (3 tbsp) fine salt
• 30ml (2 tbsp) soy sauce
• 30ml (2 tbsp) rice wine or Shaoxing wine
• 10g (2 tsp) dark miso or fermented black bean paste
• 4 garlic cloves, smashed
• 4 slices fresh ginger
• 2 spring onions, knotted
• 1 tsp Sichuan peppercorns

Tofu and sauce

• 600g (1¼ lb) firm or extra-firm tofu, cut into 5cm (2-inch) squares, 2cm thick
• Neutral oil for deep-frying
• 3–4 dried red chillies, chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 tbsp (15ml) light soy sauce
• 1 tbsp (15ml) chilli oil
• 1 tsp sesame oil
• 1 tsp rice vinegar
• 2 spring onions, finely sliced
• Fresh coriander to garnish

Instructions

1. Combine all brine ingredients in a clean jar and stir well to dissolve salt. Submerge tofu pieces in the brine. Refrigerate 24–72 hours: 24 hours gives a mild tang, 72 hours delivers full Hunan intensity. The tofu will turn slightly grey-green.
2. Remove tofu and pat gently dry. The surface should smell powerfully fermented — this is correct.
3. Heat oil to 180°C (350°F) in a wok or deep pot. Fry tofu in batches without crowding, 4–5 minutes, until the skin turns deep mahogany-black and blistered. Drain on a rack.
4. Stir together soy sauce, chilli oil, sesame oil, and rice vinegar in a small bowl for the dipping sauce.
5. Mix garlic and dried chillies into the sauce. Taste and adjust heat.
6. Serve tofu immediately while still crackling hot, topped with spring onions and coriander, dipping sauce on the side.

Cook's Notes: The brine can be reused — replenish with fresh salt and water after each batch and refrigerate. The smell diminishes dramatically during frying and the flavour of the finished dish is deeply savoury, not actually unpleasant to most diners.