Abbacchio alla Romana

Abbacchio — milk-fed spring lamb slaughtered before weaning — is the quintessential food of Roman Easter, its consumption dating to ancient Roman sacrifice and pagan spring rituals that long predate Christianity. The offal and organ meats are treasured alongside the prime cuts, with the liver, kidneys, and lights slow-braised in white wine with anchovies, rosemary, and vinegar in a preparation so ancient it appears in Roman cookery texts. This recipe focuses on the classic lamb with interiora (offal) preparation from the Jewish Ghetto trattorie of Trastevere.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 800g (1.75 lb) lamb shoulder or leg, bone-in, cut into large chunks by your butcher
• 200g (7 oz) mixed lamb offal: liver and kidneys, cut into 3cm (1 inch) pieces
• 4 anchovy fillets in oil
• 3 cloves garlic, crushed
• 2 sprigs fresh rosemary
• 4 fresh sage leaves
• 200ml (¾ cup) dry white wine
• 100ml (scant ½ cup) white wine vinegar
• 4 tbsp (60ml) olive oil
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Fresh rosemary, to garnish

Instructions

1. Pat lamb pieces and offal thoroughly dry. Season generously with salt and pepper.
2. Heat olive oil in a large, heavy-based casserole over high heat. Sear lamb pieces (not offal) in batches — do not crowd — until deeply browned on all sides, 3-4 minutes per side. Remove and set aside.
3. Reduce heat to medium. Add garlic and anchovies; cook, stirring, until anchovies dissolve into the oil (about 2 minutes). Add rosemary and sage.
4. Return lamb to pot. Pour in white wine and vinegar; the liquid should barely half-cover the meat. Bring to a boil, scraping up fond.
5. Reduce heat to low, cover, and braise 1 hour 15 minutes until lamb is tender. Add a splash of water if the pot becomes dry.
6. Add offal to the pot for the final 12-15 minutes of cooking — it should be just cooked through but retain a slight pink blush at the centre.
7. Taste and adjust seasoning. The sauce should be concentrated and intensely savoury — if too sharp, simmer uncovered 5 minutes.
8. Serve directly from the casserole with crusty bread or roasted potatoes.

Cook's Notes: The anchovies are traditional and do not make the dish taste fishy — they dissolve entirely and add umami depth. Abbacchio is available at Italian butchers in spring; substitute young lamb leg outside of season. The dish improves markedly made a day ahead, as the vinegar mellows and the flavours deepen.