Mtsvari (მწვარი)

Georgia's rivers and mountain lakes yield exceptional trout, and in the Caucasus tradition, the finest way to treat a whole fresh fish is the simplest — grilled over vine wood embers with nothing more than salt, then draped with a cold walnut and herb sauce. Mtsvari (literally 'green grilled thing' in old Georgian) embodies the Georgian culinary philosophy: let outstanding ingredients speak, and frame them with the country's inimitable walnut sauces.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

Trout:

• 4 whole river trout (each about 350g / 12 oz), gutted and scaled
• 2 tsp (10g) coarse sea salt
• 1 tbsp (15ml) vegetable oil
• 4 sprigs fresh tarragon
• 4 sprigs fresh dill
• 1 lemon, sliced

Walnut herb sauce (bazhe-style):

• 100g (3½ oz) walnut halves
• 2 garlic cloves
• ½ tsp (1g) ground coriander seed
• ½ tsp (1g) ground fenugreek
• ¼ tsp (0.5g) turmeric
• Pinch of cayenne
• 3 tbsp (45ml) white wine vinegar
• 80–100ml (⅓–⅖ cup) cold water
• Salt to taste
• 2 tbsp (10g) fresh coriander, finely chopped
• 1 tbsp (5g) fresh dill, finely chopped

Instructions

1. Score each trout 3 times diagonally on each side. Rub with salt and oil. Tuck tarragon and dill sprigs plus a lemon slice inside the cavity.
2. Prepare the sauce: blend walnuts and garlic in a food processor until finely ground. Add ground coriander, fenugreek, turmeric, and cayenne; pulse briefly. Add vinegar and enough cold water to achieve a pourable but not thin sauce. Season with salt. Fold in fresh herbs. Set aside.
3. Grill trout over medium-high charcoal or wood embers (or a preheated gas grill) for 5–6 minutes per side until the skin is blistered and charred and the flesh flakes easily at the thickest point near the backbone.
4. Transfer to a serving platter. Spoon walnut sauce generously over the hot fish — it will warm against the skin and melt slightly into the flesh.
5. Serve with remaining sauce on the side, extra lemon wedges, and fresh bread to mop up the juices.

Cook's Notes: Vine wood or fruit wood gives the most authentic smoke note. The bazhe sauce thickens as it sits — stir in a splash of water to loosen if making ahead. The sauce can also be used as a dipping sauce for vegetables or poured over cold poached chicken.