Yunnan Er Kuai (饵块)

Er Kuai is Yunnan's answer to the question of what to do with glutinous rice when you pound it into submission. These dense, chewy pressed cakes have been made in the province for over a thousand years, eaten for breakfast grilled over charcoal or sliced and stir-fried. Modern street vendors split them open, slather them with bean paste, pickled vegetables, and fried egg, and serve them like a filled flatbread — a contemporary fusion of ancient grain culture and evolving tastes.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 4 pieces er kuai rice cake (or 600g/1 lb 5 oz short-grain glutinous rice, pre-cooked and pounded)
• 2 tbsp (30g) sesame seeds, toasted
• 2 tbsp (30ml) sesame oil
• 3 tbsp (45g) Yunnan spiced chilli paste (xiang la jiang) or Korean gochujang
• 2 tbsp (30g) sweet fermented bean paste (tian mian jiang)
• 4 eggs
• 60g (2 oz) Yunnan pickled radish (yan cai), drained
• 2 spring onions, finely sliced
• Cooking oil as needed

Instructions

1. If making er kuai from scratch: soak glutinous rice overnight. Steam 35 minutes until fully cooked. While hot, pound in a large mortar or with a wet rolling pin until a cohesive, slightly sticky mass forms. Shape into flat oval cakes about 1.5cm (⅝ inch) thick. Refrigerate until firm, at least 1 hour.
2. Preheat a charcoal grill, griddle, or heavy cast-iron pan over medium-high heat. Brush er kuai cakes with sesame oil.
3. Grill cakes for 3–4 minutes each side until a golden-brown crust with charred patches forms and the interior softens.
4. Fry eggs sunny-side up in a separate pan in a little oil, 2–3 minutes.
5. Mix chilli paste and bean paste together into a spreadable sauce. Stir in toasted sesame seeds.
6. Slit each grilled cake horizontally through the middle (like a pita pocket). Spread the chilli-bean paste generously on the inside surfaces.
7. Stuff with a fried egg, a spoonful of pickled radish, and spring onions. Press together gently and serve.

Cook's Notes: Pre-made er kuai can be found in Chinese supermarkets, often labelled Yunnan rice cake. The combination of charcoal char and sweet-spicy filling is the essence of Yunnan morning markets. Leftover er kuai can be sliced and stir-fried with vegetables for a satisfying lunch.