Carne Seca com Abóbora

Carne seca — wind-dried and salt-cured beef — is Brazil's answer to biltong or salt cod, a Northeast pantry staple born from necessity in the arid sertão before refrigeration. Rehydrated and shredded, then braised with sweet abóbora (butternut squash) and aromatics, this dish is a study in contrasts: intensely savoury, smoky, salty meat against the gentle sweetness of the squash. It is eaten across Brazil but remains most beloved in Ceará and Bahia.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 500g (1 lb) carne seca (dried salt beef), soaked in cold water overnight, water changed twice
• 1 medium butternut squash (600g / 1.3 lb), peeled and cut into 3cm (1.2 in) cubes
• 2 tbsp (30ml) vegetable oil
• 1 large onion (200g / 7 oz), finely diced
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tomatoes (200g / 7 oz), roughly chopped
• 1 tsp sweet paprika
• ½ tsp ground cumin
• 200ml (¾ cup) beef stock or water
• 3 tbsp fresh coriander (cilantro), roughly torn
• 2 spring onions (scallions), thinly sliced
• Salt and black pepper
• White rice and farofa, to serve

Instructions

1. Drain the soaked carne seca. Place in a pressure cooker with fresh water to cover; cook on high pressure for 25 minutes. (Alternatively, simmer in a large pot for 1.5–2 hours.) Drain and shred the meat using two forks.
2. Heat the oil in a wide sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook 6–7 minutes until golden.
3. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute, then stir in the tomatoes, paprika, and cumin. Cook 5 minutes until the tomatoes break down.
4. Add the shredded carne seca and squash. Stir to combine.
5. Pour in the stock. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook 20–25 minutes until the squash is completely tender and beginning to collapse into the sauce.
6. Taste — the carne seca carries considerable salt, so add seasoning carefully.
7. Scatter over the fresh coriander and spring onions. Serve with white rice and farofa.

Cook's Notes: Carne seca requires long soaking to reduce its salinity — do not skip changing the water. Brazilian açougues (butcher shops) and some Latin American supermarkets carry it; sun-dried Uruguayan charque is a close substitute.