Dongbei Ma Hua (东北麻花)

Ma Hua — literally "hemp flowers" — are thick, golden-fried twisted dough ropes that have been a beloved street snack across Northeast China since the Qing dynasty. Harbin and Tianjin both claim bragging rights, but Dongbei's version is extra-crisp, subtly sweet, and speckled with sesame seeds, sold by street vendors from enormous woks during bitter winter markets.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 300g (2½ cups) plain flour, plus extra for dusting
• 1 tsp (5g) instant yeast
• 1 tbsp (15g) caster sugar
• ½ tsp (3g) salt
• 1 tbsp (15ml) vegetable oil, plus 1 litre (4 cups) for deep-frying
• 160ml (⅔ cup) warm water
• 2 tbsp (20g) white sesame seeds
• 2 tbsp (30g) honey, for glazing (optional)

Instructions

1. Combine flour, yeast, sugar and salt in a large bowl. Add oil and warm water, mixing until a shaggy dough forms. Knead on a lightly floured surface for 8 minutes until smooth and elastic. Cover and rest 45 minutes until slightly puffed.
2. Scatter sesame seeds over the dough and knead briefly to incorporate. Divide into 16 equal pieces.
3. Roll each piece into a rope about 20cm (8 inches) long and 1cm thick. Take two ropes, press one end together, then twist them around each other 4–5 times. Pinch the other end to seal. Repeat with remaining dough. Rest twisted pieces 15 minutes.
4. Heat oil in a deep wok or heavy pot to 170°C (340°F). Fry Ma Hua in batches of 3–4 for 5–6 minutes, turning occasionally, until deep golden all over. Drain on a rack.
5. While still warm, brush lightly with honey if using. Cool 5 minutes before serving — the crunch develops as they cool.

Cook's Notes: The double-twist is traditional; a single twist will also work but gives less crunch. Ma Hua keep well in an airtight tin for up to 5 days — in Dongbei they are often dunked into soy milk or congee at breakfast.