Caponata

Caponata is the great room-temperature dish of Sicily, a sweet-sour (agrodolce) relish of fried aubergine, celery, capers, olives, and tomatoes that improves enormously the longer it sits. There are dozens of versions across the island — Palermo's includes pine nuts and raisins, Catania's sometimes adds fish — but all share that characteristic tension between sugar and vinegar that characterises Arab-influenced Sicilian cuisine. It is eaten at room temperature as an antipasto, a condiment, or a lunch spread on bread.

Serves: 6

Ingredients

• 1kg (2¼ lb) aubergines (eggplant), cut into 2cm (¾ inch) cubes
• 2 tsp salt (for salting aubergines)
• 100ml (7 tbsp) olive oil, divided
• 4 stalks celery, thinly sliced
• 1 large onion, roughly chopped
• 400g (14 oz) canned chopped tomatoes
• 80g (3 oz) green olives, pitted and halved
• 3 tbsp capers, rinsed
• 40g (3 tbsp) pine nuts, toasted
• 30g (2 tbsp) raisins
• 60ml (4 tbsp) red wine vinegar
• 2 tbsp sugar
• Fresh basil leaves to finish
• Salt and black pepper

Instructions

1. Toss aubergine cubes with 2 tsp salt and place in a colander for 30 minutes. Rinse and pat thoroughly dry.
2. Heat 70ml (5 tbsp) olive oil in a wide skillet over high heat. Fry aubergine in batches for 6–8 minutes until golden brown on most sides. Remove and drain on paper towels.
3. In the same pan, heat remaining oil over medium heat. Fry celery for 4–5 minutes until slightly softened. Add onion and cook for a further 8 minutes until translucent.
4. Add tomatoes, bring to a simmer, and cook for 10 minutes. Add fried aubergine, olives, capers, pine nuts, and raisins.
5. Mix vinegar and sugar together until sugar dissolves. Pour over the caponata, stir to combine, and cook for a further 5 minutes.
6. Season, remove from heat, and allow to cool completely. Tear basil over the top just before serving at room temperature.

Cook's Notes: Caponata is one of those rare dishes that is genuinely better the next day, when the agrodolce flavours have fully penetrated the aubergine. Make it a day ahead and refrigerate; bring to room temperature before serving. Sicilians eat it on grilled bread, alongside grilled fish, or just with cheese.