Magret de Canard aux Cerises

Magret de canard is the prized breast of a duck fattened for foie gras, with a thick, ivory layer of fat that, when scored and rendered, becomes the engine for the most gloriously crisp skin in French cookery. Paired with a quick, sharp cherry sauce — a classic Gascon combination — the rich duck and the sweet-sour fruit achieve a balance that has made this dish a fixture of southwest French bistros since the 1960s when it was popularised by chef André Daguin in Auch.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 2 magret duck breasts (about 350g / 12 oz each)
• 1 tsp fleur de sel
• 1 tsp coarsely cracked black pepper

For the cherry sauce:

• 300g (10 oz) fresh or frozen dark cherries, pitted
• 120ml (½ cup) dry red wine (Madiran or Bordeaux)
• 120ml (½ cup) good chicken or duck stock
• 2 tbsp red wine vinegar
• 2 tbsp sugar
• 2 sprigs fresh thyme
• 30g (2 tbsp) cold unsalted butter, cubed
• Salt and pepper

Instructions

1. Score the duck skin in a crosshatch pattern at 1cm (½ inch) intervals, cutting through fat but not into the flesh. Season all over with fleur de sel and cracked pepper.
2. Place duck skin-side down in a cold heavy skillet. Turn heat to medium and cook for 12–15 minutes, pouring off fat as it renders, until skin is deep golden and crisp.
3. Flip duck and cook flesh-side for 4–5 minutes for medium-rare (internal temperature 57–60°C / 135–140°F). Rest on a board, skin-side up, for 8 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, make the sauce: discard all but 1 tbsp of duck fat. Add cherries, wine, stock, vinegar, sugar, and thyme. Bring to a vigorous simmer and reduce by half, about 10–12 minutes, until syrupy.
5. Remove thyme, season, and whisk in cold butter off the heat to gloss the sauce.
6. Slice duck diagonally into 1cm pieces. Arrange fanned on warm plates and spoon cherry sauce over and around.

Cook's Notes: Starting the duck in a cold pan is essential — it gives the fat maximum time to render before the skin colours. Sour cherries produce the best sauce; add a touch more sugar if using tart varieties. The rendered duck fat is liquid gold — strain and refrigerate for roasting potatoes.