Gaeng Hung Lay (แกงฮังเล)

Gaeng Hung Lay is the crown jewel of Chiang Mai cuisine, a Shan-Burmese-influenced braised pork curry that slow-cooks pork belly and shoulder in a complex paste of dried spices, galangal, and shrimp paste until the meat is fall-apart tender and the sauce is thick, slightly sweet, and deeply aromatic. It is a centrepiece dish at Northern Thai festivals and celebrations.

Serves: 6

Ingredients

Hung Lay paste:

• 8 dried long red chillies, soaked and deseeded
• 6 shallots, roughly chopped
• 6 cloves garlic
• 3cm (1.2 inch) piece galangal, sliced
• 2 stalks lemongrass, tender inner parts, sliced
• 1 tsp shrimp paste (gapi)
• 1 tsp ground turmeric
• 1 tsp hung lay curry powder (or Madras curry powder)

For the curry:

• 800g (1.75 lb) pork belly, cut into 4cm (1.5 inch) pieces
• 400g (14 oz) pork shoulder, cut into 4cm (1.5 inch) pieces
• 1 head garlic, cloves separated and peeled
• 100g (3.5 oz) ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
• 3 tbsp (45ml) fish sauce
• 2 tbsp (30ml) palm sugar (or brown sugar)
• 2 tbsp (45ml) tamarind paste
• 240ml (1 cup) water
• 2 tbsp (30ml) neutral oil
• Steamed jasmine rice, to serve

Instructions

1. Blend all paste ingredients in a food processor or pound in a mortar until a smooth, fragrant paste forms.
2. Heat oil in a large wok over medium-high heat. Fry the paste for 3-4 minutes, stirring constantly, until very fragrant and the oil separates.
3. Add the pork belly and shoulder pieces. Toss to coat in the paste and sear over high heat for 5 minutes until the edges colour.
4. Add the whole garlic cloves, ginger matchsticks, fish sauce, palm sugar, tamarind paste, and water. Stir well and bring to a boil.
5. Transfer to a heavy pot or slow cooker. Cover and braise over the lowest heat for 2 hours (or slow cooker on LOW for 5-6 hours), stirring every 30-45 minutes. The pork should be completely tender and beginning to fall apart.
6. Uncover and simmer over medium heat for 15-20 minutes to reduce the sauce to a thick, glossy consistency that clings to the meat. Taste and adjust the balance of fish sauce (salt), palm sugar (sweet), and tamarind (sour).
7. Serve over steamed jasmine rice, garnished with the whole braised garlic cloves.

Cook's Notes: The dish is always better the day after cooking — prepare in advance and reheat gently. Hung Lay curry powder (a blend of warm spices including cumin, coriander, and cinnamon) is the authentic choice and can be found in Northern Thai and Shan food shops.