Na Xi Kao Rou (纳西烤肉)

The Naxi people of Lijiang in northwestern Yunnan are celebrated for their open-fire cooking, which melds Tibetan, Han, and indigenous traditions. Na Xi Kao Rou — pork ribs or shoulder marinated in mountain spices and grilled over fragrant wood coals — is served with a dipping sauce of fresh local herbs: mint, coriander, and wild garlic pounded with dried chilli and salt. The dish is a fixture at outdoor Naxi festivals and the night markets of Old Town Lijiang.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

Pork

• 1 kg (2.2 lb) pork spare ribs or bone-in shoulder, cut into large pieces
• 2 tsp ground cumin
• 1 tsp ground coriander
• 1 tsp chilli powder
• 1 tsp fine salt
• 1 tbsp (15 ml) light soy sauce
• 1 tbsp (15 ml) neutral oil
• 4 cloves garlic, grated
• 1 tsp Yunnan-style smoked paprika (or regular smoked paprika)

Wild herb dipping sauce

• 1 large bunch fresh mint leaves (about 30g / 1 oz)
• 1 large bunch fresh coriander (about 30g / 1 oz)
• 3 spring onions, roughly chopped
• 3 cloves garlic
• 2 dried red chillies, soaked in hot water 10 minutes, drained
• 1 tbsp (15 ml) rice vinegar
• ½ tsp salt
• 2 tbsp (30 ml) water

Instructions

1. Combine cumin, coriander, chilli powder, salt, soy sauce, oil, and garlic to form a paste. Rub all over pork. Marinate for at least 2 hours; overnight in the fridge is ideal.
2. Prepare a charcoal grill for medium-high indirect heat. If using a gas grill, set one side to high, one to low.
3. Sear pork pieces directly over coals for 3–4 minutes per side until well charred. Move to indirect heat; cover and cook 25–30 minutes for ribs (40–45 for shoulder) until cooked through and juices run clear.
4. While pork grills, make the dipping sauce: pound mint, coriander, spring onion, garlic, and chillies in a mortar to a coarse paste. Stir in rice vinegar, salt, and water. Alternatively, pulse briefly in a food processor — keep it rustic and textured.
5. Rest pork 5 minutes, then serve with herb sauce alongside, and extra salt and chilli flakes on the table.

Cook's Notes: Naxi cooks traditionally use local pine or oak wood for a resinous smoke note; applewood chips soaked in water make a good substitute on a Western grill. The herb sauce is best made within an hour of serving — it loses its brightness quickly.