Laal Maas

Laal Maas — literally 'red meat' — is the defining dish of Rajasthan, born in the hunting camps of the Maharajas. Mutton is braised slowly in a sauce built almost entirely from Mathania dried red chiles and yoghurt, yielding a vivid scarlet curry of searing heat and remarkable depth. Traditionally cooked over wood fires in heavy brass pots, it is the kind of dish that defines a region's identity.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 1 kg (2.2 lb) bone-in mutton or lamb shoulder, cut into large pieces
• 15-20 Mathania dried red chiles (or Kashmiri + 2-3 bird's eye chiles), stemmed and soaked in warm water 20 minutes
• 250ml (1 cup) full-fat plain yoghurt, whisked smooth
• 3 large onions, finely sliced
• 6 cloves garlic, minced
• 4cm piece ginger, minced
• 3 tbsp (45ml) ghee
• 1 tbsp (15ml) neutral oil
• 5 whole cloves
• 2 black cardamom pods, lightly crushed
• 1 tsp coriander powder
• Salt to taste
• Fresh coriander leaves, to garnish

To serve: bajra roti (pearl millet flatbread) or plain rice

Instructions

1. Drain the soaked chiles and blend with just enough water to form a smooth, thick paste. Set aside.
2. In a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, heat ghee and oil over medium-high heat. Fry cloves and black cardamom 30 seconds until fragrant.
3. Add sliced onions and cook, stirring often, for 18-20 minutes until deeply golden and caramelised.
4. Add garlic and ginger; cook 2 minutes. Add the chile paste and cook over medium heat for 8-10 minutes, stirring constantly, until the oil begins to separate from the paste.
5. Add mutton pieces and sear 5-6 minutes, tossing to coat in the masala.
6. Reduce heat to low. Add coriander powder and yoghurt one spoonful at a time, stirring briskly after each addition to prevent curdling.
7. Cover and braise on low heat for 60-75 minutes, stirring occasionally and adding small splashes of water if the curry sticks, until the mutton is completely tender and oil pools on the surface.
8. Season with salt. Garnish with fresh coriander and serve with bajra roti or rice.

Cook's Notes: Mathania chiles give Laal Maas its unique fruity heat and deep colour. If using substitutes, increase Kashmiri chiles for colour and add bird's eye for heat. The long, patient frying of the chile paste is what builds the dish's extraordinary depth.