Yakizakana

Yakizakana — salt-grilled fish — is a cornerstone of the Japanese breakfast table and a daily staple across the country. A whole fish or fillet is lightly salted 30 minutes before cooking, then grilled over high heat until the skin blisters and caramelises while the interior remains tender and moist. The technique is ancient, lean, and reveals the inherent flavour of the fish itself.

Serves: 2

Ingredients

• 2 whole small fish (saba — mackerel, aji — horse mackerel, or iwashi — sardines), or 2 salmon fillets, skin-on, about 150–180g (5–6 oz) each
• 1 tsp (5g) fine sea salt
• 1 tbsp (15ml) sake (rice wine), for dabbing
• 1 lemon or sudachi citrus, cut into wedges
• 1 tbsp (15g) finely grated daikon (mooli radish)
• Soy sauce, a few drops
• Steamed short-grain rice, to serve
• Pickled vegetables (tsukemono), to serve

Instructions

1. Pat the fish dry. Score the skin of whole fish two to three times on each side. Dab lightly with sake. Salt the fish evenly all over, including inside the cavity of whole fish. Leave uncovered on a rack in the fridge for 20–30 minutes.
2. Preheat your grill (broiler) to its highest setting, or heat a fish grill pan until smoking hot. If using a broiler, line the tray with foil.
3. Grill whole fish for 5–6 minutes per side, fillets for 4–5 minutes skin-side up first, then 2–3 minutes flesh-side, until the skin is golden and blistered and the flesh flakes easily.
4. Transfer to a serving plate. Rest 2 minutes.
5. Serve with grated daikon alongside (a few drops of soy on the daikon is the traditional accompaniment), lemon wedges, steamed rice and pickled vegetables.

Cook's Notes: The salt cure is the only seasoning the fish needs. The grated daikon is not decoration — its enzymes and refreshing bite cut the richness of oily fish beautifully. Any oily or semi-oily fish suits this method.