Canard aux Cerises

Canard aux cerises — duck with cherries — is an old recipe from the Loire and Burgundy regions where wild cherries grew alongside the river banks and duck was abundant. The interplay of rich, darkly flavoured braised duck with tart cherries and a splash of Kirsch or red wine creates a sauce that is sophisticated and deeply French in character.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 4 duck legs (approx. 300g/10 oz each)
• Salt and black pepper
• 1 tbsp (15ml) neutral oil
• 2 shallots, finely minced
• 2 garlic cloves, sliced
• 200ml (¾ cup) red wine (Burgundy or Côtes du Rhône)
• 200ml (¾ cup) rich chicken or duck stock
• 2 tbsp (30ml) Kirsch (cherry brandy) or Cognac
• 500g (1 lb 2 oz) fresh or frozen pitted cherries (Morello or Montmorency preferred)
• 1 tbsp (15ml) red wine vinegar
• 1 tsp caster sugar
• 2 sprigs fresh thyme
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 tbsp (15ml) unsalted butter, cold, cubed
• Fresh flat-leaf parsley, to serve

Instructions

1. Pat duck legs thoroughly dry with paper towel. Season generously with salt and pepper.
2. Place duck legs skin-side down in a cold, heavy oven-safe casserole. Set over medium heat and render the fat slowly 12–15 minutes until the skin is deep golden-brown and most of the fat has been released. Flip and brown the flesh side 3 minutes. Remove duck and pour off most of the rendered fat, reserving 2 tbsp.
3. Preheat oven to 170°C (340°F).
4. Sauté shallots in the reserved fat 3 minutes until soft. Add garlic and cook 1 minute. Pour in Kirsch and let it sizzle 30 seconds, then add red wine. Reduce by half, about 5 minutes.
5. Add stock, thyme, bay leaf, vinegar and sugar. Return duck legs skin-side up. Bring to a simmer.
6. Cover and braise in the oven for 1 hour 20 minutes, until the duck is very tender.
7. Transfer duck to a warm plate. Skim fat from the braising liquid. Add cherries to the pan and simmer over medium heat 8–10 minutes until the sauce reduces to a glossy consistency and the cherries are soft but hold their shape.
8. Remove from heat and whisk in cold butter to give the sauce a silky gloss. Taste for seasoning.
9. Return duck to the pan or plate the legs and spoon the cherry sauce over. Serve with buttered egg noodles or a silky potato purée.

Cook's Notes: Morello or Montmorency cherries (tart varieties) give the best flavour contrast against the rich duck fat. Sweet cherries work but reduce the sugar to a pinch. Frozen pitted cherries are excellent year-round. The duck can be braised a day ahead; add the cherries and finish the sauce when reheating.