Churchkhela

Churchkhela is one of the ancient foods of Georgia, walnuts (or hazelnuts) threaded on a string and repeatedly dipped in thickened grape must until encased in a firm, jewel-coloured shell. Made each autumn at grape harvest, it sustained Georgian warriors and travellers for centuries, and today hangs in every market from Tbilisi to Kakheti. Making it at home is a weekend-long project and a direct link to Georgian antiquity.

Serves: 8 (makes 4 sausage-shaped rolls)

Ingredients

• 200g (7 oz) shelled walnuts, halved
• 1 litre (4 cups) fresh grape juice, preferably dark/red (or pure bottled with no additives)
• 80g (3 oz) plain flour or rice flour (for gluten-free)
• 50g (2 oz) fine semolina or cornflour
• 2 tbsp (25g) sugar (optional, depends on grape sweetness)
• Strong cotton thread and a large needle

Instructions

1. Day before: Thread walnuts onto 30cm (12-inch) lengths of cotton thread using a needle, spacing them 1cm (1/2 inch) apart. Tie a loop at the top for hanging. You should have 4 strings with 10-12 walnuts each. Hang overnight to dry.
2. Pour grape juice into a wide saucepan. Bring to a gentle boil and reduce by one quarter over 20-25 minutes. Skim foam as it rises.
3. In a bowl, whisk flour and semolina/cornflour with 200ml (3/4 cup) cold grape juice until smooth. Whisk this slurry into the hot reduced juice. Add sugar if using.
4. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, for 15-20 minutes until the tatara (grape paste) thickens to a consistency that coats a spoon and holds a trail — it should look like thick pudding.
5. First dip: Hold each walnut string by the loop and dip into the hot tatara, ensuring all walnuts are coated. Lift out, let excess drip back into the pot, and hang to dry in a warm place for 2-3 hours.
6. Repeat dipping 3-4 times, drying between each dip, until the shell is 3-4mm (1/8 inch) thick and the churchkhela looks plump and smooth.
7. After the final dip, hang in a cool dry place for 2-3 days until the surface is dry but the inside remains slightly chewy.

Cook's Notes: The tatara must be kept warm during dipping — reheat gently if it thickens too much. Churchkhela keeps for months wrapped in a cloth in a cool pantry; it develops a fine white bloom from grape sugars, which is natural and desirable.