Barbacoa de Res

True barbacoa de res — the origin of the English word barbecue — is made by wrapping seasoned beef cheeks and offcuts in agave leaves and slow-cooking them in an earth pit overnight. The result is beef so meltingly tender it collapses at a touch, suffused with the smoky, mineral scent of the agave and a paste of dried chiles, cumin, and cloves. This stovetop and oven adaptation is faithful to the flavour if not the theatre.

Serves: 8

Ingredients

• 1.5 kg (3.3 lb) beef cheeks, trimmed of excess fat
• 4 dried ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
• 3 dried chipotle chiles (or 2 chipotles in adobo)
• 1 medium white onion, quartered
• 5 garlic cloves
• 1 tsp (4 g) cumin seeds, toasted
• 0.5 tsp (2 g) ground cloves
• 1 tsp (4 g) dried Mexican oregano
• 2 tbsp (30 ml) apple cider vinegar
• 1 bay leaf
• Salt and black pepper
• Fresh lime, cilantro, and diced white onion, to serve
• Warm corn tortillas, to serve

Instructions

1. The night before: toast ancho and chipotle chiles in a dry skillet until fragrant. Soak in hot water 20 minutes. Blend with onion quarters, garlic, cumin, cloves, oregano, vinegar, and 120 ml (0.5 cup) soaking water until completely smooth. Season generously.
2. Score beef cheeks and marinate in the chile paste overnight, covered, in the refrigerator.
3. Preheat oven to 150°C (300°F). Transfer beef and all marinade to a heavy ovenproof pot. Add bay leaf and 250 ml (1 cup) water. Cover tightly with a double layer of foil, then the lid.
4. Braise in the oven 4–5 hours until beef cheeks collapse when pressed and pull apart with two forks.
5. Shred the beef directly in the braising liquid, mixing the meat with the concentrated sauce.
6. Serve in warm corn tortillas with cilantro, diced onion, and plenty of fresh lime juice.

Cook's Notes: Beef cheeks are the traditional and best cut — their high collagen content produces a rich, silky braise. Chuck or short rib are workable substitutes. The overnight marinade is important and should not be skipped; it penetrates the dense cheek muscle. Leftovers freeze exceptionally well for up to 3 months.