Chikhirtma

Chikhirtma is Georgia's most elegant soup — a golden, silky broth thickened with egg yolk and vinegar rather than flour or starch, perfumed with saffron and fresh coriander. Unlike heartier Georgian stews, chikhirtma is refined and restorative, traditionally served to guests of honour at the supra table.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 1 whole chicken, about 1.5 kg (3.3 lb), or 600g (1.3 lb) bone-in chicken thighs
• 1.8 litres (7.5 cups) cold water
• 1 large white onion, finely diced
• 3 tbsp (45ml) unsalted butter
• 1/4 tsp saffron threads, steeped in 3 tbsp hot water for 15 minutes
• 1 tsp ground coriander
• 1/4 tsp turmeric
• 3 egg yolks
• 3 tbsp (45ml) white wine vinegar or verjuice
• Large handful fresh coriander (cilantro), finely chopped
• Salt and white pepper

Instructions

1. Place chicken in a pot with cold water and a pinch of salt. Bring to a simmer, skimming foam for the first 10 minutes. Cook gently for 50-60 minutes until the chicken is completely tender.
2. Remove chicken and strain broth. Skim fat. Return broth to the pot — you want about 1.4 litres (6 cups); reduce or top up with water as needed.
3. Meanwhile, sweat the onion in butter over low heat for 15-20 minutes until completely soft and golden but not browned. Add ground coriander and turmeric, cook 1 minute.
4. Add the softened onion mixture and saffron with its soaking liquid to the broth. Bring to a gentle simmer.
5. Shred the chicken, discarding skin and bones. Add to the broth.
6. In a bowl, whisk egg yolks with vinegar until combined. Ladle about 200ml (3/4 cup) of the hot broth into the egg mixture slowly, whisking constantly to temper. Pour the tempered mixture back into the pot, stirring continuously. Do NOT boil after this point or the eggs will scramble.
7. Heat over the lowest flame for 3-4 minutes, stirring, until the broth turns slightly creamy and coats a spoon. Add most of the fresh coriander, season, and serve immediately, garnished with remaining coriander.

Cook's Notes: The egg-vinegar liaison is what makes chikhirtma unique — the vinegar prevents the yolks from curdling and adds a subtle brightness. The soup should be gently savoury, golden, and just perceptibly thickened, not starchy.