Samke Harra bil Tahini

Samke harra — "spicy fish" — is Beirut's grandest fish dish, traditionally prepared for family feasts on the Lebanese coast. A whole fish is stuffed and baked or grilled, then blanketed in a vivid tahini and caramelised onion sauce fragrant with cumin, chilli, and fresh coriander.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

Fish

• 1 whole sea bass or sea bream, 1.2-1.5 kg (2.5-3.3 lb), cleaned and scaled
• 3 tbsp (45ml) olive oil
• 1 tsp cumin
• 1/2 tsp coriander
• 1/2 tsp chilli flakes
• 1/2 tsp turmeric
• 4 garlic cloves, sliced
• 1 lemon, thinly sliced
• Salt and black pepper

Tahini Sauce (Tarator)

• 120g (4 oz / 8 tbsp) tahini
• 80ml (1/3 cup) fresh lemon juice
• 120ml (1/2 cup) cold water
• 2 garlic cloves, grated
• Salt to taste

Caramelised Onion Topping

• 3 large onions, thinly sliced
• 4 tbsp (60ml) olive oil
• 1/2 tsp cumin
• 1/4 tsp chilli flakes
• Large handful fresh coriander (cilantro), chopped
• 50g (2 oz) pine nuts, toasted

Instructions

1. Score the fish 3-4 times on each side. Mix olive oil with spices and rub all over and into the cavity. Stuff the cavity with garlic slices and lemon slices. Season well. Marinate 30 minutes.
2. Grill over medium-high charcoal or a gas grill, or roast at 220°C (430°F), for 20-25 minutes until the skin is charred and the flesh flakes easily at the thickest point.
3. Meanwhile, cook onions in olive oil over medium-low heat, stirring frequently, for 25-30 minutes until deeply golden and jammy. Stir in cumin and chilli flakes, cook 2 more minutes.
4. Whisk tahini with lemon juice, garlic, and cold water until smooth and pourable (it will seize then loosen — keep whisking). Season with salt.
5. Transfer fish to a serving platter. Pour the tahini sauce over and around it, then spoon the caramelised onions on top. Scatter coriander and pine nuts.
6. Serve with flatbread for scooping sauce.

Cook's Notes: The tarator sauce is also excellent on grilled vegetables or drizzled over roasted cauliflower. Use any firm white fish; snapper, tilapia, or cod fillets work well if whole fish are unavailable.