Siu Ngo (燒鵝 — Cantonese Roast Goose)

Siu ngo is the crown jewel of Cantonese siu mei (roasted meats), prized for its lacquered mahogany skin, yielding fat layer, and richly seasoned cavity. Roast goose stalls in Hong Kong's Sham Shui Po and Wan Chai districts draw queues that stretch around the block; a properly rendered bird is considered one of the great tests of a Cantonese roast master's skill.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 1 whole goose, about 4 kg (9 lb), cleaned
• 2 tsp (10g) fine salt
• 1 tsp (5g) five-spice powder
• 1 tsp (5g) white pepper
• 3 tbsp (45ml) hoisin sauce
• 2 tbsp (30ml) Shaoxing rice wine
• 1 tbsp (15ml) dark soy sauce
• 1 tbsp (15g) sugar
• 4 cloves garlic, smashed
• 3 slices fresh ginger
• 3 spring onions, tied in a knot

Glaze:

• 3 tbsp (45ml) maltose or honey
• 2 tbsp (30ml) rice vinegar
• 1 tbsp (15ml) light soy sauce
• 125ml (½ cup) boiling water

Instructions

1. Mix salt, five-spice, and white pepper together. Rub the inside cavity of the goose thoroughly. Combine hoisin, Shaoxing wine, dark soy, sugar, garlic, ginger, and spring onions; stuff into the cavity and sew or skewer the opening shut.
2. Dissolve maltose in boiling water with rice vinegar and light soy sauce to make the glaze. Blanch the goose in a large pot of boiling water for 2 minutes, then pat dry.
3. Brush the glaze generously all over the skin. Hang the goose uncovered in a cool, airy spot for at least 4 hours or overnight — the skin must feel dry and taut to the touch before roasting.
4. Preheat oven to 220°C (425°F). Place the goose on a rack over a deep roasting tray. Roast for 20 minutes until the skin begins to colour.
5. Reduce heat to 180°C (350°F) and continue roasting for 50–60 minutes, basting with pan juices every 20 minutes. The skin should be a deep mahogany and crisp.
6. Rest for 15 minutes. Cut into pieces with a cleaver, pour the collected cavity juices over the meat, and serve immediately with steamed rice and plum sauce.

Cook's Notes: The overnight drying step is non-negotiable for crackling skin. Goose fat renders beautifully — save it for roasting potatoes. If maltose is unavailable, dark honey works but gives a slightly sweeter result.