Kalan

Kalan is one of the oldest dishes in Kerala's Sadya feast — a thick, slightly sour curry of raw plantain and elephant yam cooked in coconut and yoghurt, seasoned with black pepper and dried red chilli. Its characteristic tang comes from soured yoghurt (naturally fermented) that is stirred in at the end, and the dish thickens as it cools, becoming almost chutney-like in texture.

Serves: 6

Ingredients

• 300g (10 oz) raw plantain (green banana), peeled and cut into 3 cm (1 inch) cubes
• 300g (10 oz) elephant yam (chena) or regular yam, peeled and cut into 3 cm (1 inch) cubes
• 1 tsp (3g) turmeric
• 2 tsp (6g) black pepper, coarsely ground (this is essential — do not reduce)
• 1 tsp (3g) red chilli powder
• 1 tsp (6g) salt
• 200ml (¾ cup) water

Coconut paste:

• 80g (2¾ oz) freshly grated coconut (or desiccated, rehydrated)
• 1 tsp (3g) cumin seeds
• 3 dried red chillies

Finishing:

• 250ml (1 cup) thick soured yoghurt (curd), lightly whisked
• 1 tsp (5ml) coconut oil
• 1 tsp (3g) mustard seeds
• 10 fresh curry leaves
• 2 dried red chillies, broken

Instructions

1. Combine plantain, yam, turmeric, black pepper, chilli powder, salt, and water in a heavy pot. Cover and cook over medium heat for 12–15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until both vegetables are just cooked through and most of the water has been absorbed.
2. Meanwhile, grind coconut, cumin, and dried chillies to a smooth paste in a blender with 3–4 tbsp water.
3. Stir the coconut paste into the cooked vegetables. Mix well and cook over medium-low heat for 5 minutes, stirring until the coconut is fragrant and the mixture is thick.
4. Reduce heat to the lowest setting. Add soured yoghurt and stir continuously for 3–4 minutes — do not boil or the yoghurt will split. Remove from heat when the curry reaches a thick, glossy consistency.
5. In a small pan, heat coconut oil until shimmering. Add mustard seeds and wait until they pop. Add curry leaves and dried chillies; fry 20 seconds. Pour the tempering over the kalan and stir once.

Cook's Notes: The sourness of the yoghurt is key — if using fresh yoghurt, leave it at room temperature for 4–6 hours to sour slightly before using. Kalan thickens considerably as it cools and is traditionally served at room temperature as part of the Onam Sadya on banana leaf.