Paya

Paya is an ancient Mughal slow-braise of lamb or goat trotters cooked overnight until the collagen and marrow dissolve into a healing, deeply aromatic broth. Eaten from Old Delhi to Lahore as a dawn meal after Fajr prayers, it is prized for its gelatinous texture and is traditionally started late at night to be ready by sunrise.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 4 lamb trotters (paya), cleaned and split by the butcher (about 1.2 kg / 2 lb 10 oz)
• 2 medium onions (300g / 10 oz), finely diced
• 4 tbsp (60ml) ghee
• 8 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tsp (10g) fresh ginger, minced
• 2 tsp (6g) coriander powder
• 1 tsp (3g) cumin powder
• 1 tsp (3g) turmeric
• 1 tsp (3g) red chilli powder
• 2 tsp (6g) garam masala
• 4 green cardamom pods, bruised
• 2 black cardamom pods, bruised
• 1 cinnamon stick (5 cm / 2 inches)
• 4 cloves
• 1.5 litres (6 cups) water
• Salt, to taste
• Fresh coriander, ginger julienne, and lime wedges to serve
• Naan or khamiri roti, to serve

Instructions

1. Wash the trotters thoroughly. Place in a large pot, cover with cold water, bring to a boil and simmer 10 minutes. Drain and rinse — this removes impurities.
2. In the same pot, heat ghee over medium heat. Fry the whole spices (cardamom, cinnamon, cloves) for 1 minute. Add onions and cook 15 minutes until deep caramel brown.
3. Add garlic and ginger; cook 3 minutes. Add all the ground spices and cook 2 minutes, stirring constantly.
4. Return the blanched trotters to the pot. Add 1.5 litres water and salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce to the lowest simmer. Cover tightly.
5. Braise for 5–6 hours (or overnight, 7–8 hours), checking every couple of hours and adding water if needed to keep the trotters submerged. The broth will turn silky and golden-brown as the collagen releases.
6. Skim any excess fat from the surface. The meat should be falling from the bone. Adjust salt, stir in garam masala, and serve in deep bowls topped with fresh coriander, ginger julienne, and a squeeze of lime.

Cook's Notes: A pressure cooker can reduce the cook time to 2 hours on high, though the overnight slow braise develops far superior flavour. The broth sets to a firm jelly when cooled — a sign of excellent collagen content. Reheat gently and thin with water if needed.