Chakhapuli (ჩახაფული)

Chakhapuli is the dish that announces spring in Georgia. Young lamb is braised with enormous quantities of fresh tarragon, green tkemali (sour plum sauce), white wine, and spring onions until the herbs form a vivid green cloak over the tender meat. It is served at the Georgian Easter table and at any dinner party that demands something extraordinary, fragrant, and deeply seasonal.

Serves: 6

Ingredients

• 1.2 kg (2 lb 10 oz) bone-in lamb shoulder or ribs, cut into 5 cm (2 in) pieces
• 250ml (1 cup) dry white wine
• 100ml (7 tbsp) green tkemali (sour plum sauce) or fresh tart plum juice
• 6 spring onions (scallions), roughly chopped
• 80g (3 oz) fresh tarragon leaves and tender stems, roughly chopped
• 30g (1 oz) fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
• 20g (¾ oz) fresh coriander (cilantro), chopped
• 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 1 tsp (4g) dried fenugreek leaves (utskho suneli)
• ½ tsp (2g) ground white pepper
• 1 tsp (5g) fine salt
• 2 tbsp (30ml) unsalted butter

Instructions

1. Place the lamb pieces in a wide, heavy pot. Add the white wine, tkemali, spring onions, garlic, fenugreek, salt, and pepper. Add just enough cold water to barely cover the meat (about 200ml / ¾ cup).
2. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, skimming any foam. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and braise for 45–55 minutes until the lamb is very tender.
3. Stir in the fresh tarragon, parsley, and coriander. Add the butter. Cook uncovered for a further 5–7 minutes — the liquid will reduce to a fragrant, herb-green sauce.
4. Taste for salt and tartness; add more tkemali if the sauce needs brightness.
5. Serve directly from the pot with plenty of fresh Georgian flatbread (shotis puri) or crusty sourdough to mop the sauce.

Cook's Notes: The volume of fresh tarragon looks alarming but is correct — it is the soul of the dish. Do not use dried tarragon as a substitute. The sauce should be vivid green and intensely herbal.