Pasta e Fagioli alla Veneta

In the Veneto, this thick, nourishing soup sits between a pasta dish and a bean stew — locals say it should be so thick a spoon stands upright. Every town, every family has their version: some smoky with pork rind, others laced with rosemary, all of them deeply comforting. It is cucina povera at its most satisfying.

Serves: 6

Ingredients

• 400 g (14 oz) dried borlotti beans (or 2 x 400 g cans, drained)
• 200 g (7 oz) ditalini or small elbow pasta
• 150 g (5 oz) guanciale or pancetta, finely diced
• 1 medium onion, finely diced
• 2 medium carrots, finely diced
• 2 stalks celery, finely diced
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 sprigs fresh rosemary
• 400 g (14 oz) can crushed tomatoes
• 1.5 litres (6 cups) light chicken or vegetable stock
• 80 ml (⅓ cup) extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to finish
• 50 g (1.8 oz) Parmigiano-Reggiano rind (optional but recommended)
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

1. If using dried beans, soak overnight in cold water. Drain, cover with fresh water, and simmer for 60-80 minutes until just tender. Drain, reserving the cooking liquid.
2. In a large heavy pot, render the guanciale over medium heat until crispy, 5-7 minutes. Add the olive oil, onion, carrot, and celery. Sweat until soft and translucent, about 10 minutes.
3. Add the garlic and rosemary, cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the crushed tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes.
4. Add the beans, stock, and Parmigiano rind if using. Simmer uncovered for 20 minutes, allowing the flavours to meld.
5. Remove about one-third of the beans and mash or blend them, then stir back into the soup to thicken.
6. Bring to a vigorous simmer and add the pasta. Cook, stirring often, for 8-10 minutes until al dente. The soup will thicken considerably.
7. Remove rosemary sprigs and Parmigiano rind. Season generously with salt and black pepper.
8. Serve in wide bowls with a thread of good olive oil and a crack of black pepper.

Cook's Notes: This soup thickens as it stands — add a splash of stock when reheating. The Parmigiano rind is not optional in spirit, even if optional in practice: it adds an extraordinary savouriness. This is even better the next day.