Bian Rou

Bian rou is Fujian's answer to the wonton noodle soup, but its wrapper is strikingly different: sheets of pork skin, pounded until paper-thin, enclose a filling of hand-chopped pork that has been beaten with a mallet until it reaches a springy, paste-like texture. The result is a dumpling that is almost translucent when cooked, with an almost prawn-like snap. Found in breakfast stalls throughout Fuzhou, it is consumed from shallow bowls fragrant with sesame oil and sliced spring onion.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

For the wrappers:

• 200 g (7 oz) pork loin, sliced paper-thin and pounded flat with a mallet (or substitute thin store-bought wonton wrappers)
• 1 tbsp (15 g) tapioca starch

For the filling:

• 350 g (12 oz) pork shoulder, hand-minced or pounded to a coarse paste
• 1 tbsp (15 ml) light soy sauce
• 1 tsp (5 ml) sesame oil
• 1 tsp (5 g) white pepper
• 1 tsp (5 g) sugar
• 1 tbsp (15 ml) cold water

For the soup:

• 1.2 litres (5 cups) light pork bone stock
• 200 g (7 oz) thin rice vermicelli or egg noodles
• 2 spring onions, finely sliced
• 1 tbsp (15 ml) sesame oil
• Salt and white pepper to taste

Instructions

1. Combine all filling ingredients and beat with chopsticks in one direction for 3 minutes until the mixture becomes slightly sticky and cohesive.
2. If using pork loin wrappers, dust each slice lightly with tapioca starch. Place a teaspoon of filling in the centre of each wrapper, fold over, and press edges firmly to seal into a flat triangular shape.
3. Bring stock to a gentle simmer. Season with salt and white pepper.
4. Cook the noodles in a separate pot of boiling water according to packet directions, about 2–3 minutes. Drain and divide between four bowls.
5. Poach the bian rou in the simmering stock for 3–4 minutes until they float and the pork filling is cooked through.
6. Ladle the hot broth over the noodles and top with the bian rou. Finish with sesame oil and spring onions.

Cook's Notes: The tradition of pounding pork loin into wrappers is labour-intensive but produces an extraordinary texture — it is worth making for a weekend project. Using commercial wonton wrappers is an acceptable shortcut without sacrificing much flavour.