Xiao Ji Dun Mogen

Xiao Ji Dun Mogen — literally "small chicken braised with mushrooms" — is the definitive comfort dish of China's northeast, a slow braise that joins free-range chicken with dried hazel mushrooms (zhan moguo) foraged from the boreal forests of Jilin and Heilongjiang. The mushrooms are the star: earthy, dark, and deeply perfumed, they transform a simple chicken braise into something profound. Every Dongbei grandmother has her version, and it is one of the dishes most associated with home.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 1 whole free-range chicken (about 1.2kg / 2.6 lb), chopped through the bone into pieces
• 60g (2 oz) dried hazel mushrooms (zhan moguo) or dried porcini, soaked 30 minutes in warm water
• 200g (7 oz) dried vermicelli noodles, soaked 15 minutes
• 4 tbsp (60ml) light soy sauce
• 2 tbsp (30ml) Shaoxing rice wine
• 1 tbsp dark soy sauce
• 1 tsp sugar
• 4 garlic cloves, smashed
• 5 slices fresh ginger
• 2 star anise
• 2 tbsp (30ml) vegetable oil
• 600ml (2.5 cups) water or light chicken stock
• Spring onions, to garnish

Instructions

1. Drain the soaked mushrooms, reserving the soaking liquid. Squeeze out excess water and halve any large mushrooms. Strain the soaking liquid through a fine sieve.
2. Heat oil in a large clay pot or Dutch oven over high heat. Brown the chicken pieces in batches, 3-4 minutes per side, until golden. Remove.
3. Reduce heat to medium. Fry the ginger, garlic, and star anise for 1 minute until fragrant.
4. Return the chicken to the pot. Add soy sauces, rice wine, sugar, mushrooms, reserved mushroom liquid, and stock. Bring to a boil.
5. Cover and braise over low heat for 35 minutes. Add the soaked vermicelli, stir gently to combine, and cook uncovered for a further 8-10 minutes until the noodles absorb the broth and the sauce thickens.
6. Garnish with spring onions and serve directly from the pot with steamed rice.

Cook's Notes: The mushroom soaking liquid is essential — it contains concentrated forest flavour. Hazel mushrooms (Lactarius volemus) are specific to the northeast Chinese forests; dried porcini or shiitake are good substitutes. This dish is always better the next day as the noodles absorb more of the braising sauce.